Blogging Fatso!

[tippie53]

I will try and get some . You going to be at ASIA Tony ?

[David L]

OK, so here's where I'm at, I'm in the process of pore filling and I'm trying to look ahead a little and I notice that the gap between the fb and the peghead veneer (where the nut goes) is 1/8". I don't know how thick the nut is supposed to be but it seems like it will be wider than 1/8". How thick (or wide, whichever is correct) is it supposed to be? Also, if the gap needs to be widened (trimming the peghead veneer I assume) should I do it now before I start laying down the finish so as to avoid messing up the finish?

David L

[johnnparchem]

The nut slots on my guitars are about 1/4 of an inch. I would cut it before I finished the peghead. It should be cut so that it is parallel witht he fretboard end.

[Darryl Young]

Yes, I would cut it now. It's not the easiest job to do as the bottom of the veneer should be perfectly parallel with the end of the fretboard. Also, the nut should stand up 90 deg to the base of the fretboard. If your nut is placed on the slanted portion of the headstock (Martin style), this means you have to sand/cut the bottom of the nut to match the back angle of the headstock so the nut is upright and sits flat against the end of the fretboard.

You might consider shaping your nut first.......at least getting the correct angle on the bottom of the nut......then use the actual nut to mark the location of the cut as you sure don't want a gap between the veneer and the nut.

Finally, if the nut is sitting on the slanted portion you have to make the cut at a matching angle; else, a V-shaped gap shows between the nut and the veneer. I think the headstock on my neck was slanted back 15 deg so I cut a 15 deg angle on the end of a 2X4 and clamped it to the headstock and used that as a guide for my dovetail saw while cutting. It's tricky as you can easily cant the saw up or down and cut one edge too deep so take your time.

On my next build, I'll try something different. I'll wait to glue the peghead veneer on the neck till after the fretboard is glued in place (or at least till I have the fretboard located with pins). Also, I'll make sure I have the correct angle on the end of the headstock veneer (where it buts against the nut) before glueing it in place. Then I'll position the nut, slide the veneer up against it, and after clamping in place......remove the nut before the glue sets up. Seems this would be easier and more precise than trimming the veneer after glueing as the cut can easily be messed up.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

On my next build, I'll try something different. I'll wait to glue the peghead veneer on the neck till after the fretboard is glued in place (or at least till I have the fretboard located with pins). Also, I'll make sure I have the correct angle on the end of the headstock veneer (where it buts against the nut) before glueing it in place. Then I'll position the nut, slide the veneer up against it, and after clamping in place......remove the nut before the glue sets up. Seems this would be easier and more precise than trimming the veneer after glueing as the cut can easily be messed up.

Darryl,
This is how I build mine. I have a dummy nut that is a skosh narrower than what my actual nut will be. I use this as the stop for the veneer between it and the fretboard end for gluing the veneer. It is wrapped in wax paper so the glue doesn't stick. When I remove it, the slot is clean, and then I can finesse sand the actual nut down to just fit the slot perfectly. This system works very well.
Make sure your veneer edge that will fit up against the nut is truely flat and square before you glue it down.

Kevin

[johnnparchem]

Thanks Darryl and Kevin, I will use that method on the guitar I am building. I think I did that on my last guitar working with Rick, but I had forgotten that method.

[David L]

Makes a lot of sense, thanks guys.

David L

[David L]

I finally got some finish on the neck after pore filling. What type of sanding block do you guys use on the neck? So many radii and curves.

David L

[johnnparchem]

I use felt sanding blocks that I have cut in half to make them thinner about 3/8 inch. I also use no pad or block, but I fold the paper so that I get some backing.

[David L]

John, where do you get felt sanding blocks?

David L