Finally starting to brace my first build

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Neil,
I'm sure you are feeling good getting going on your top.
I also use a go-bar deck, but you do have to be careful as those rubber tips can cause them to slip off. I don't preshape my braces just so I have a flat wide surface to place the tip on which helps.
I did notice that your bars look to be flexed more (more pressure)than is probably necessary, so you might consider shortening them up a little, which will reduce the "scary" aspect a bit too.
Looking good.

Kevin

[nkwak]

OK, I just looked at the plans and it looks like the X brace is backwards; the longer cut is supposed to go up by the sound hole.

Note the bevel markings of the X braces on the plans:


Here's what my braces look like:


I posed this question over at the OLF and they told me I should be fine. The opinion is that the luthier who drew up the plans made the bracing a little beefier - which I take it to mean that it's open for both experimentation and n00bie b00 b00s from the likes of those such as me! ;o)

My friend YJ John (the guy in the picture) is the one whose shop I'm using for this and he took the top out and gave it a tap the other night. He told me it's nice and clear with a lot of sustain, so I may have stumbled in the right direction and saved myself a little bit of work with the chisel.

I hope so, at least.

[Ken Hundley]

Looking good so far. There is a few luthiers out there, whom I tend to agree with, that feel there really shouldbn't be any shaping or scalloping of the X-braces near the shound hole (or across the center of the soundboard, in my case) but only behind the bridge, so your top will be just fine. I do scallop both sides, but barely touch the braces in front of the sound board....almost more of a smoothing out and asthetic shaping rather than tuning. I shape behind the bridge quite a bit. As many have said, more than one way to skin a cat.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Neil,
One thing I just noticed looking at your picture of the top in the go-bar deck. It doesn't look like the x braces are long enough to inlet into the kerfing as I see them stop short of your traced line. Did you plan to assemble your top to the rims this way?

Kevin

[nkwak]

Kevin,

It just kind of worked out that way. Another case of user error, I'm afraid. IIRC they project about 1/8" into the kerfing.

[ColestineGuitar]

That cedar looks real nice! If you don't mind my asking, did you buy it from a tonewood source, or come up with the stuff yourself? I'm interested in doing a cedar top--maybe build number 3 or 4...

[Ben-Had]

you haven't lived till you have go bar shrapnel flying at you . Once one goes, the rest follow

Ha. That's why I invested in a vacuum press, once was enough for me. I value my eyesight.

[nkwak]

That cedar looks real nice! If you don't mind my asking, did you buy it from a tonewood source, or come up with the stuff yourself? I'm interested in doing a cedar top--maybe build number 3 or 4...

It actually belongs to my friend who in turn bought out another guy who'd gotten frustrated. I agree that it's a great set of WRC. The tap tone has some nice sustain for being cedar too.

BTW, bracing is back on the back burner. In fact, the bracing I glued down was removed because there were gaps in the glue joint so it's back to being just a flat plate again. Once I get my rims ready I'll move back to bracing the top - this time with a wider angle on the X brace. I still have to decide on a bridge plate as well. Does anybody have any suggestions? I was thinking EIR but my friend has been raving about osage orange and has been using it on his builds.

[tippie53]

I have both vacuum and go bars and I use them both for different reasons. On HHG if you have a bag vacuum the go bar is better.

[Tom West]

Neil: Lots of choices for your plate.I would use a different rose wood from EIR,maybe Honduran,Brazilan. I've also used Padauk.Reliable Maple and your friends suggestion of Osage. Of the lot EIR would be my last choice.All will work and choice not a major concern.
Gluing can also be done with clamps and thin cauls on the face side of the board. Thats how I do,not that it is any better,but the way I started and continued to do.
Tom