Build #3: sitka/black walnut 000

Take us through building your guitar step by step. Post pictures and tell us what you're doing.
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Kevin Sjostrand
Posts: 3988
Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:06 pm
Location: Visalia, CA

Re: Build #3: sitka/black walnut 000

Post by Kevin Sjostrand »

Good work Neil
You're almost there
That's alot of glue squeeze out around the bridge. I hope you cleaned that off before it hardened?
nkwak
Posts: 719
Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2010 9:55 pm
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs

Re: Build #3: sitka/black walnut 000

Post by nkwak »

I did clean it off with a slightly damp sponge and them I used a chisel when it started to stiffen. I didn't think I used that much glue really. I'm hoping that that means it will stay put!
~ Neil
Kevin Sjostrand
Posts: 3988
Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:06 pm
Location: Visalia, CA

Re: Build #3: sitka/black walnut 000

Post by Kevin Sjostrand »

Ha ha I think it will.
You'll be playing tunes soon
nkwak
Posts: 719
Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2010 9:55 pm
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs

Re: Build #3: sitka/black walnut 000

Post by nkwak »

Kevin Sjostrand wrote: Wed Sep 10, 2025 11:52 pm Ha ha I think it will.
You'll be playing tunes soon
I hope so, but the drop in saddle I bought is too thick and the bone bridge pins I ordered are still a day away. I’m actually relishing going through the setup process.

BTW for comparison I went to my local Martin dealer to try a Custom Shop 000-28 just to see what to shoot for. I’ve got a LOT of work ahead of me!
~ Neil
Stray Feathers
Posts: 778
Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 11:39 pm
Location: Ladysmith, BC

Re: Build #3: sitka/black walnut 000

Post by Stray Feathers »

It will be a great guitar. For your saddle, I actually like them a little too thick, so I can sand them down for a no-wiggle fit. I use progressive grits of wet-dry sandpaper (using it dry) on a piece of plate glass, rotating end to end and side to side frequently to keep it flat. I made up a simple sanding device that is a block of wood with a wood rim on all four sides, lower than the finished saddle thickness, so there is a recess for the saddle blank to lie in. It makes it easier on the fingers when sanding-you push the block back and forth, and the saddle blank underneath gets sanded. Bruce W.
rcnewcomb
Posts: 402
Joined: Wed Jul 29, 2015 9:04 pm
Location: San Jose, CA, USA

Re: Build #3: sitka/black walnut 000

Post by rcnewcomb »

I made up a simple sanding device that is a block of wood with a wood rim on all four sides, lower than the finished saddle thickness, so there is a recess for the saddle blank to lie in.
Do you have a photo?
- Randall Newcomb
10 fingers in, 10 fingers out - another good day in the shop
Stray Feathers
Posts: 778
Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 11:39 pm
Location: Ladysmith, BC

Re: Build #3: sitka/black walnut 000

Post by Stray Feathers »

Here it is - in all its splendor . . . . I have sometimes put a shirt cardboard shim in the bottom if I am doing a thinner saddle. You could also customize it for certain sizes if you make your saddles consistent (mine tend to be all one-offs). And with a larger recess you could do more than one saddle at a time, which might give flatter results.
Bruce W.
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nkwak
Posts: 719
Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2010 9:55 pm
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs

Re: Build #3: sitka/black walnut 000

Post by nkwak »

I managed to sand it to fit using a piece of polished marble that was supposed to be a backsplash for a bathroom vanity. I also got the bridge pins today and reamed out the bridge pin holes so that they now fit. Now the only issue I’m having is dealing with a botched nut slot. Ugh.
~ Neil
TEETERFAN
Posts: 423
Joined: Fri Sep 07, 2018 12:43 pm
Location: Kansas City, MO

Re: Build #3: sitka/black walnut 000

Post by TEETERFAN »

Ha, we got a new bathroom vanity installed and all the scraps became assorted sanding blocks.
Kevin Doty
Kansas City
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