finish experiment

[ruby@magpage.com]

1988

One of the slides has what I did - 4 coats and level, 3 coats and level finer, 2 coats and leverl finer still, then one last gloss coat?? Body and neck the same.

Ed

[Meng1988]

1988

One of the slides has what I did - 4 coats and level, 3 coats and level finer, 2 coats and leverl finer still, then one last gloss coat?? Body and neck the same.

Ed

Did you seal it before finishing?

[ruby@magpage.com]

I have been in the habit for decades of applying shellac before a finish. I put on two coats minutes apart with a folded paper towel, then hit it quickly with 400 or 600 grit paper, whichever is closer to hand. Oil finish gets no shellac.

Ed

[FLEMSMITH1]

Ruby@magpage....In the pic where you are removing the finish prior to gluing down the bridge, are you using any chemical, or just a very sharp chisel? I don't think I could do that dry and maintain a good gluing surface.

Thanks, Roy

[ruby@magpage.com]

Roy

I do it dry. A really sharp chisel held vertically acting as a scraper is quite precise. My daughter has her own shop (brooklynlutherie.com) and she got a tip from the late great Paul Hostetter (lutherie.net for all sorts of great info) and uses a mezzotint rocker for the job. It is a chisel like a toothing blade for a plane and does a great job even on very very old nitro. She uses the 1/2" width

Ed

[FLEMSMITH1]

thanks. admiring, but so far I think I better stick with chemical remover. As I get more confident, I can try newer techniques. Right now I'm just trying to develop one set I think I can depend on without making new problems for myself. Roy

[Diane Kauffmds]

A chemical could be hard to control. Even with the area well taped, your finish may soften under the edge of the tape. Plus, if any trace of chemical should remain, your glue joint might be compromised.

Here is another alternative for you to consider.

Tape off the area where you don't want finish. I did this with my first guitars. You tape the area where your bridge or fretboard extension will sit. Determine where the bridge will sit and tape your bridge over this area. Use a #11 xacto blade, and "trace" the bridge. This will cut through the tape, so you can peel away the excess, leaving your footprint.

Just apply your finish of choice.

When cured, use your #11 blade to score the finish around the tape. Remove the tape. You'll have a pristine wood area to glue to.

PicsArt_09-28-02.05.33.jpg

PicsArt_04-06-10.17.08.jpg

[FLEMSMITH1]

Thanks for the bridge advice. I did much better trying your way. No more chemical strip for me.

Since this thread is really about Wipe On Poly, I'm doing a neck that way now. I've got quite a few coats on, (forgot to keep track), ready to start finish sand and polish. I'm used to letting Nitro cure for some time. How long should I let this Minwax cure before I start thinking I could go to finish sanding? Is 24 hours long enough? Roy

[Diane Kauffmds]

I've used shellac as a base for all of my finishes, including Minwax wipe-on poly. Shellac works well with all finishes, because it's a resin. The alcohol evaporates, leaving only resin. In fact, I use minwax wipe-on poly on ALL of my necks, after using shellac as a base.

Go ahead and use your usual pore filling with shellac and dust. It'll work just fine with the poly, and it'll look better with shellac, than without.

[Diane Kauffmds]

Thanks for the bridge advice. I did much better trying your way. No more chemical strip for me.

Since this thread is really about Wipe On Poly, I'm doing a neck that way now. I've got quite a few coats on, (forgot to keep track), ready to start finish sand and polish. I'm used to letting Nitro cure for some time. How long should I let this Minwax cure before I start thinking I could go to finish sanding? Is 24 hours long enough? Roy

Glad to help with the bridge problem.

You can knock nibs off after ~ 4 hours of cure, before adding a coat of poly. For final finish sanding, let it stand a minimum of 24 hours. I prefer 48 hours though. Be prepared to change sandpaper frequently. Tiny pads of the finish will form and will scratch your finish.

You can knock them off with a scraper, or frequently rub the paper on a rug remnant. But, watch for those little flat pieces.