Fingerboard side dots

[ChuckBarnett]

20180704_171551.jpg

So, the other day I came close to giving up on quality and accuracy with regard to the placement of the side fretboard marker dots on this ukulele. I certainly would like to get this instrument done before Jesus returns! Thankfully, my wife said something that raised a question in my mind about settling for less than my best however. So I have decided to take that binding strip off but I am not sure about the best method to do that. I know enough now to ensure accuracy in drilling those holes the next time I do this.
I glued it on with Titebond and I am also concerned about the mitered corner toward the sound hole. I have enough of that koa to make another strip so that is no problem.
I may experiment with some other hardwood that is lighter than this koa to get the spots that I had to fill in to match the fretboard binding color. But I expect that I will ultimately get to this point anyhow. How would you tackle removing this binding strip? Once again I'm always grateful for this forum!

[MaineGeezer]

If it's "original" Titebomd, you should be able to get it to separate with the application of some heat. Find an aluminum, brass, or steel block of moderate size -- 1" square by 4" long or so would he good -- heat it on your kitchen stove to spit-sizzle hot and lay it on the strip. Use a knife blade to get under the strip and pry it off as the heat softens the glue. Re-heat and reapply the block as necessary as you work your way along the strip.

[ruby@magpage.com]

You can also spend $6 and get an infrared light bulb which will heat the part:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby1638/ ... 344222304/

Go left and right a few pictures to get the whole idea - took less than 10 minutes with hide glue on this 80 year old guitar.

I am sure that Johm Hall has many similar shots to show

Ed

[ChuckBarnett]

If it's "original" Titebomd, you should be able to get it to separate with the application of some heat. Find an aluminum, brass, or steel block of moderate size -- 1" square by 4" long or so

Thank you, Mainegeezer! It is original Titebond. Sounds like you've had some experience with this?

[MaineGeezer]

Of course not! Purely theoretical. <grin>

[Bob Gleason]

Fretboards warp fast if they get too much heat applied. Be careful if you use a light or a blanket. A regular electric clothing iron works great for these situations. Physically smaller is better for ease of use. Pick one up at the thrift store for a few bucks.

[carld05]

I've got my wife's old "travel' clothes iron. 3" wide X 6" long. Perfect for this operation. Used it twice on the same neck last week before I got it right.

Carl

[ChuckBarnett]

You can also spend $6 and get an infrared light bulb which will heat the part:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby1638/ ... 344222304/

Go left and right a few pictures to get the whole idea - took less than 10 minutes with hide glue on this 80 year old guitar.

I am sure that Johm Hall has many similar shots to show

Ed

Ed, is it an infrared lamp or is it a heat lamp?
Thank you, very much! :-)

[ChuckBarnett]

Thank you all, very much for your help with this! I had forgotten that Mary Lou has an old iron that she has designated the 'craft iron'. And that worked well. I was surprised how easily the binding strip came off. Almost too easy.
Made a new strip and got it on and got dots installed. One trouble I had (translation: thing I learned) is even though I ordered a special Brad Point 16 in in bit and used a fence to which I clamped the fretboard, I failed to consider that such a small bit might deflect. Thus I got to practice one more time, mixing sawdust with glue and filling a hole. This time I mixed half koa and Beech wood. Practiced with that and liked the color match. Also stayed away from using CA glue which I think had left a dark ring around the dots in my first attempt. To read drill once that hole was filled, I shortened that bit in the chuck to a half inch or so. Despite all of my eyeballing and effort I was not satisfied with the lineup of that dot. It was the right one of the two at the 12th fret. And so I decided that both of those fret markers would become 5/64" and used a twist drill bit, carefully lining up the bit to sort of cheat those holes better into line with one another. And, finally, I can live with this for my first try.
I must say that this could have been a lot simpler for Chuck. I learned some things and don't plan on forgetting them!