First Build -Finish yourself or have it professionally done?

[MaineGeezer]

I use this grain filer: https://aquacoat.com/products/clear-grain-filler

Here is basically how I do it:

After sanding the wood to about #320, apply a coat or two of thin shellac. Then apply the grain filler, sanding it down and applying more if necessary until you get a uniformly smooth surface. Then start the French polishing routine.

[OldManGuitarGuy]

I use this grain filer: https://aquacoat.com/products/clear-grain-filler

Here is basically how I do it:

After sanding the wood to about #320, apply a coat or two of thin shellac. Then apply the grain filler, sanding it down and applying more if necessary until you get a uniformly smooth surface. Then start the French polishing routine.

Thanks for that tip. I'm trying to save all this great info on my PC for when I actually get to that point in the process! I've a LONG long way to go....................

[Mal-2]

I know one guy that us using super glue.

I seem to recall that Crimson Guitars uses a cyanoacrylate finish sometimes. I believe he does this because it takes an incredibly high gloss with less work than some other materials.

I found wipe-on poly to be quite easy to work with, and the result to be quite pleasing. It doesn't take very much of it, either. I'll probably have the same 1 quart can for the next ten-plus guitars, assuming I ever make that many (and keep it sealed well enough in between). Getting that nice satin finish on the back of the neck was as simple as sanding with 800 grit wet-dry paper. I will definitely continue using poly unless it proves to be insufficiently durable.

[Diane Kauffmds]

I know one guy that us using super glue.

I seem to recall that Crimson Guitars uses a cyanoacrylate finish sometimes. I believe he does this because it takes an incredibly high gloss with less work than some other materials.

I found wipe-on poly to be quite easy to work with, and the result to be quite pleasing. It doesn't take very much of it, either. I'll probably have the same 1 quart can for the next ten-plus guitars, assuming I ever make that many (and keep it sealed well enough in between). Getting that nice satin finish on the back of the neck was as simple as sanding with 800 grit wet-dry paper. I will definitely continue using poly unless it proves to be insufficiently durable.

I've used wipe on poly for the necks of my guitars, because necks take beating. I French polish the boxes. I've since switched to nitro on the necks and shellac on the box. Depending on the build, I put a few coats of shellac by fp, then I switch to nitro. This way the beautiful figure is accentuated by the shellac and I have the durability of the nitro.

[MaineGeezer]

I've used wipe on poly for the necks of my guitars, because necks take beating. I French polish the boxes. I've since switched to nitro on the necks and shellac on the box. Depending on the build, I put a few coats of shellac by fp, then I switch to nitro. This way the beautiful figure is accentuated by the shellac and I have the durability of the nitro.

I've been told that shellac brings out the figure in wood better than poly-whatever because shellac is a simple, small molecule that penetrates into the detail of the grain. The synthetic poly-whatevers, on the other hand, are long-chain molecules that bridge over the crevices and mask them.

[justdoug]

After inheriting the family farm house I sanded and refinished the old pine floors. I used two brush on coats of shellac it seal and bring out the grain, then two to three coats of oil based urethane with a lambs wool applicator. After ten years the floors still look great. I will be starting on my 000-18 in a few days. Cant wait to do the shellac/french polish on it.
Read everything you ever wanted to know about shellac here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shellac
It's even edible

Doug

[Stray Feathers]

I just finished my two first builds, and I am almost into my eighth decade too. I like a high gloss finish on guitars, so I bought a low end Earlex sprayer to use with a water based "lacquer". I can only post one URL so for some information about this, do a search on this forum for "Brite-tone" and you should find a thread about the finish I tried. More information on how they turned out here: viewtopic.php?f=48&t=7216&start=20#p46237. The key takeaway for me was this: I really sweated (first time spraying) trying to get a perfect finish, and then I learned (in large part from some of the experts on here) that perfect is not essential. You can clean up a lot of imperfections with a combination of level sanding, wet sanding through several grades, then polishing with some combination of Micro Mesh abrasives and polishing creams (I used Menzerna but there are others). I'm very happy with the finish on my guitars. It takes time and elbow grease but you can do it. I will try the same approach again, but I may try a different water-based "lacquer"-like finish.

[OldManGuitarGuy]

....
Read everything you ever wanted to know about shellac here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shellac
It's even edible :)

Doug

Yeah, but at least the original shellac is made from ground-up insect parts! <g>

[Kbore]

How did the Earlex work for you?

[Stray Feathers]

Here is a thread where I give some thoughts: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=8257&p=46157&hilit=earlex#p46157

This model of Earlex works, but it seems a little unsophisticated. I think the more money you spend, the more quality and flexibility you have, and probably better results. Practice will help in my case for sure, and I will use it again, because I think I will get better at it, and I just can't justify the significant expense of buying better spray equipment for a few guitars.