Setting the neck angle on my guitar

[Phil]

So I spent about 4 hours the other day setting the neck on my 000. I got the neck just about dead centered with the body, and I got the neck angle set I THINK. I do remember reading some discussions somewhere describing how to do this, but for the life of me I can't seem to find them now! Basically, right now with the neck bolted on and fingerboard on the top I don't have any hump at the 14th fret which is good, and the fingerboard sits flush with the top. If I place a straight edge along the fingerboard, it passes over the bridge about 1 mm (approx .040"). Is this good?

If you can let me know that would be great... or if you can point me in the direction of those posts I'm having trouble finding thats great too!

[kencierp]

four hours --- yikes!!

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/neckangle.html

[kencierp]

And yes if the frets are installed and the neck adjusted so it's perfecly flat .04" is workable -- make sure that the fingerboard extension is compressed with a clamp against the sound-board and the bolts are very tight -- then take the measurements. If the joint is not perfect (heel to body) your measurement will not be accurate, even a tiny chip or burr will change everything.

[tippie53]

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_q ... etail&aq=f
here is a link to a series of videos on setting a neck. We are here to help
john

[Phil]

four hours --- yikes!!

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/neckangle.html

I actually have viewed those links you guys sent me a few times! I've read through all the articles on Ken's site several times and watched all of John's videos a couple times too! I must say that I'm very appreciative of people like you that are willing to help a beginner out! Despite reading/viewing the information so many times, I find that every time I read or view a video I get more out of it and understand it a little better. I'll look through those all again before I continue.

Having never done something like this before, I tried to be patient and take my time so I didn't screw anything up! I was trying to get the angle set with the board unfretted and not glued to the neck... thats one of the reasons it took me so long... I'd make an adjustment, then clamp the neck/fingerboard in place, measure, then repeat), so I guess I DID kinda screw up huh? In that case I'll have some adjustments ahead of me... I have since fretted the board, so I'll have to take a few measurements and see where I'm at now with frets on. Then I can figure out what to do next.

[tippie53]

keep us posted , we are here to help and we can get you fixed up

[Phil]

I've been keeping a journal of my build, and sofar I've spent a little over 91 hours on the build! And I still have a bit to do PLUS finishing. I read on Kathy Matsushita's site that one of her first builds was over 160 hours so I'm probably not doing too bad then. In my defense, when I said 4 hours, that did include drilling the neck bolt holes (shoulda done them before gluing the top/back on, but lesson learned), carving out the cheeks on the neck, centering the neck with the body AND the neck angle. I'm sure John/Ken could probably do all of that in their sleep with all their experience! ha ha I'm sure on my next build things will go quicker (this IS an addictive hobby ha ha)

I clamped everything up, and including the frets, the straight edge falls about 2.25 mm (.088") above the bridge if measured at the saddle. So I guess I have a little tweaking to do.

[kencierp]

My reference regarding time frame was not apporopriate -- and out of place, I do apologize.

I think there is a lesson to be learned here and not over looked. When a bolt-on neck block (assuming it is 1st quality) is properly assemble to the rim, on center-line and perpendicular to the sound-board edge, the neck will almost automatically fall on center as well. A cutaway can present an additional problem since that bend is continually forcing the block out of position. In my process, the neck block is actually secured to the work-board (on center) until after the top is glue on.

Since a fretted finger-board tends to have a bow,especially at the extension, I would suggest using a simultor as described here:
http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/neckfitpart1.html
to get accurate mesurements.

[Phil]

My reference regarding time frame was not apporopriate -- and out of place, I do apologize.

I think there is a lesson to be learned here and not over looked. When a bolt-on neck block (assuming it is 1st quality) is properly assemble to the rim, on center-line and perpendicular to the sound-board edge, the neck will almost automatically fall on center as well. A cutaway can present an additional problem since that bend is continually forcing the block out of position. In my process, the neck block is actually secured to the work-board (on center) until after the top is glue on.

Since a fretted finger-board tends to have a bow,especially at the extension, I would suggest using a simultor as described here:
http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/neckfitpart1.html
to get accurate mesurements.

No worries Ken, no offence taken! I thought it was just some playful teasin! Ha ha

I'm building this guitar on a very restricted budget (I used a foam mold for eg) and I did have a problem with the neck block rotating due to the
cutaway. I think I'll be investing in some better tooling for my next build cause I'm enjoying building. I'll definitely try to better control
the neck block orientation better next time. A good mold will help for sure.