Minimizing binding joints

[mikewaz]

Hey all - this is my first time using wood binding and I'm not too happy with how my joints turned out. I know I can do better next time by making a tighter fit.

I'm looking for insight on:

1 - looking at the image do you know of anything I can do to make this joint look better at this point?

2 - do you have any tips on how you handle these types of binding joints for next time?

Thanks!
Mike

[Danl8]

Looks like the right side binding should have been trimmed another 1/4-1/2" as it isn't seated well in the binding channel. Cutting the butt joint can be done with a fine tooth razor saw making sure it is 90 degrees exactly. When you test fit, the joint should be nearly invisible. Don't bother trying to sand or chisel the ends for a good fit -- that's like chasing a rabbit all day long.

Another option is to do a scarf joint. That's also a good way to handle the purfling if you lay that in separately.

[tippie53]

I do them in 1 piece you can get binding in longer lengths. When I do have to joint them Like Dan8 I use a scarf joint.
that is then you trim the ends so they butt against like this _____________//________________ the angle provide a larger glue area and helps hide the joint better

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Light colored bindings like maple are difficult to do with no joint showing. At best, you will be left with a slight glue line showing. Just part of the look, and I have tried to get used to it myself. I've never used anything but wood bindings.

[mikewaz]

Thanks guys. Really appreciate all the replies. This build has been going great up until this point. I may route off the binding and purfling and give it another go. I can use just slightly larger binding and purfling.

Kevin - What type of glue do you prefer for wood binding? I had used CA, but am thinking of using Titebond this time around.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

I've used CA on a couple of guitars where I did abalone purflings and it worked well there, and I used Titebond Translucent on the last guitar which had maple binding, but I've been using LMI white glue, which they no longer have, so now I have their new yellow glue and that is what I'll use on the classical I'm ready to install the bindings on, maybe even tonight!
The Titebond Translucent was just fine, and it does dry clear.

[MaineGeezer]

A scarf joint works pretty well. The longer the bevel the better -- within reason, of course.

You may not be able to do this, but if you can give the binding a half twist, line up the ends side by side, and cut both tapers at the same time, they will match. I do it when I grind tapers on the ends of a bandsaw blade prior to silver brazing, but wwod binding may not be flexible enough.

[tippie53]

I use 2 glues when binding , if I have wood I like to use Elmers white glue on light woods and tite bond original. Duco for any plastic and I stopped using CA.
If you get CA on spruce often this will discolor over time to a nice yellow. and stands out like a pimple on your nose.

[mikewaz]

Hey guys - thanks again for your replies. I routed off the bindings today and got the new top binding on so far. I went with a scarf joint and it's nearly invisible.

The photos below show my process. I did a dry fit first of each side, marking the center line. I then sanded a 60 degree scarf joint using my stationary belt sander. I joined the left and right binding strips. This was done on my bench, not on the guitar. I used CA, mini cauls and my vise grip since I couldn't find my mini clamp. I sanded the joint smooth and then began to glue up the binding.

I used white glue this time. It was so much nicer to work with than CA which I always used in the past. The white glue is much cleaner since you just wipe up squeeze out as you go. There's no agressive scrapping needed.

[mikewaz]

A couple more photos...