Binding/End Wedge joint

[ac25srplus]

I've been stuck for a couple months trying to get the joints between the plastic white binding and the white end wedge to look half way decent. There was a slight gap between the wedge and binding so I tried gluing a small sliver between them and it just went downhill from there. One joint looks pitted although it feels smooth. The other end looks dirty like rosewood dust got sanded into it. I've tried melting extra binding with acetone and applying over the joint but after several attempts it still looks bad. I've tried cutting the joints out and I get it back to the same point (looking bad). I've tried wiping with straight acetone to blend them together but now you can see a blob where I tried it.

Wondering if there are any other things to try or should I just strip the binding and wedge off and start over? I could just leave it and move on but I know it would be the thing I always look at when I pick it up and of course point it out to others. Also, I'd really like to learn how to fix it so if/when it happens again I know what to do.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

badBinding.jpg

badBinding2.jpg

Thanks,

Tim

[tippie53]

to get the best joint
1st before you do the binding you set the wedge.
2nd be sure your hands are clean and blow off all dirt before adding glue.
3rd allow the glue to dry before you even touch it.
this should help. It seems that if you try and set the wedge , no matter how careful you are , the joint is more visible. Allowing the binding bit to cut and trim it gives a better fit.

[ac25srplus]

That make perfect sense and explains why I didn't do it that way. lol I set the wedge (before adding the binding) then trimmed it by hand and thus my problems began.

So is the best option from where I'm at right now to remove the wedge and binding and do it right from the start? As I typed that last line it seems obvious that it is the right answer!


Thanks so much!

Tim

[tippie53]

I would do it over. You are at a point that it isn't that difficult to do it again. You will be happy you did in the long run.

[ac25srplus]

Thanks I realized that and ordered the binding before your last post.

I ordered more binding, glue and tape but didn't think about the herringbone purfling! Is it possible to use a little heat and remove the binding but not the purfling? I was hoping to get this done over the next few days but if I have to order purfling it won't make it until next week.

Thanks,

Tim

PS. Or maybe someone knows where I can get herringbone purfling in Maryland.

[tippie53]

you may be able to get the binding off and let the herringbone. You can rout the binding off but take your time and cut is from the top down in about 4 passes

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Tim
Since you are going to redo, you might want to consider putting wood bindings on instead. I'm sure John could bend them for you.
How about some curly maple with an end wedge to match.

Kevin

[ac25srplus]

Kevin,

Thanks for the suggestion. I had thought about it but decided to stick with the plastic for now. However, I'm already looking forward to doing a 000-28 and may do wood binding for it. But I'm getting way ahead of myself now. haha

Thanks again,

Tim

[ac25srplus]

I did get the binding off rather easily. For the top I used a heat gun to warm the binding then it pried off fairly easily. On the bottom I repeatedly dipped a razor in acetone and worked it under the binding to loosen it. I pulled gently in both cases and I don't think one was easier than the other. Perhaps the heat was slightly easier but only slightly.

I did leave the herringbone purfling on the top with no problem. Again, just go slowly.

Tim