I stop using anything. I use the double action welded nut truss rod from LMI. The welded nut part is always tight on my installs; also the bottom rod has heat shrink, I was not sure what the caulk would do with these rods. I do always have a bit of tension on the rod, I figure that will keep it from rattling.Ben-Had wrote:The glue or silicone could be considered "insurance against rattling. I know one very long time luthier that uses nothing and says he has never had an issue with it yet but that it would only take one time for him to possibly reconsider. He's still waiting for that one time.
Truss rod question
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Re: Truss rod question
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Re: Truss rod question
Ah HAH! I've always wondered, BenHad and Johnnparchem, when there is no glue in the channel, would it be possible to remove and replace a broken rod with minimum damage to the guitar?
Slowest builder on the forum. These things take time. Apparently.
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Re: Truss rod question
I would still need to pull the fret board. Not a horrible task.ColestineGuitar wrote:Ah HAH! I've always wondered, BenHad and Johnnparchem, when there is no glue in the channel, would it be possible to remove and replace a broken rod with minimum damage to the guitar?
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Re: Truss rod question
I do not glue the truss rod in the neck. My design allows me to remove the truss rod without damaging the guitar should it break. If you think about it, once the rod is stressed it cannot rattle as the stress tightens everything up avoiding rattles. I have done about 380 guitars without glue and never had a problem. If I do have one that somehow rattles I definitely would change my procedure! But, I have never had a problem and I like to be able to quickly repair an instrument of mine without damage to the instrument (no removal of the fretboard)!
Sylvan Wells
Wells Guitars
Bay State Guitars
http://www.wellsguitars.com
http://www.baystateguitars.com
Wells Guitars
Bay State Guitars
http://www.wellsguitars.com
http://www.baystateguitars.com