Radiusing Neck and Tail Blocks

[Metalone72]

Ok, I am in the midst of remaking jigs for radiusing the neck and tail block for glue up. My first go around was somewhat successful however I quickly came to realize that the jig I made produces a tighter radius than desired. I made a fence for my stationary sander and a jig with appropriate radius that holds the neck and tail blocks. The jig has the proper radius that I need and rides the fence, sanding the curvature into the blocks, since the jig is about 1/4" away from the sanding belt when riding the fence, I am getting a tighter radius. I am now in the process of compensating the radiuses (making them larger) to obtain the appropriate radius.

Anyhow, this got me wondering, how do you all radius your blocks?

[tippie53]

I free hand them on the sander and check them against the mold , takes about a minute. I also put a strip of plywood in the tail block where the strap pin will be. That helps to stop a split tail block should you ever drop a guitar on the end pin.

[Ben-Had]

I use my mold. I apply PSA sandpaper to the block locations and hand sand in the radius. I put cross hatch marks on the block and sand until they are gone. Takes just a minute.

I do as Tim does. Haven't reached the level where I can freehand as John does.

[johnnparchem]

I free hand check against the sides in the mold and lately my end block is plywood.

[JVan]

I free hand them on the sander and check them against the mold , takes about a minute. I also put a strip of plywood in the tail block where the strap pin will be. That helps to stop a split tail block should you ever drop a guitar on the end pin.

Ditto~

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Yep, free hand it

[B. Howard]

I use my fretboard radius gauges as I shape them to check as I work. I have the radius noted for each guitar on the prints.