intial set up on a new guitar

[tippie53]

When you are setting up a guitar for the first time , this tutorial will help
First you must start with the neck set , as you can see in the photos I have the neck center to within 1/16 of the top center. I also shoot for a 3/8 in rise at the saddle position on the top.

NOTE
THIS IS A SCALLOPED BRACED GUITAR. ON NON SCALLOPED BRACES I WOULD BE SHOOTING FOR 1/16 IN HEIGHT ON THE BRIDGE / FRET PLANE CLEARANCE.

[tippie53]

Once the neck set is good I look at the fit and finish of the joint before glue up. Not the before and after pics. I don't pull the sand paper all the way only about 1 inch. I want to get the face of the neck to mate to the guitar. This may take a few rubs. I use 320 grit. Too coarse may chip the lacquer.

[tippie53]

Now that I am happy with the joint appearance I glue in the neck. This is a dovetail , and I use fish glue. Note the leather pad on the back. I also use a slightly smaller radius than the fretboard do the ends of the fretboard are clean and tite to the top. I use a 14 in radius on the extension.
Also note the foam tape on the clamp so I don't mar the finish. I clamp the neck and then the extension.

[tippie53]

once the glue sets it is time to set the bridge. Here I use a jig but the process is based off the scale length. On a 25.4 I will follow the line of the 1st string and place the front of the saddle at 25.5 and the front at the bass E to 25 5/8 in. This will set up the intonation about 2 to 3 cents flat.
The reason I do this is because the guitar will cause the points of the saddle and nut to try to come together. Also the bridge will rotate slightly and this will shorten over time. If you set up on the button you may find that the guitar will be sharp as you play higher up the neck.
So with the neck attached I again lay the straight edge on the fretboard and read the clearance on the bridge. I want about 3/32 at the treble side of center. You will see that the wood ship ( .025 ) is touching. I used a 3/32 drill bit to gauge the height.
IT SHOULD GO WITHOUT SAYING THAT THE NECK SHOULD BE ADJUSTED TO BE AS STRAIGHT AS POSSIBLE. I ALSO ADJUST THE BRIDGE BY SANDING OFF THE BOTTOM. MY BRIDGE STARTED AT .410 IN THE CENTER AND ENDED UP AT .350 IN.

[tippie53]

Now that the bridge has been fit to the neck I am ready to glue this on. As you can see I place the bridge to the approximate position , then make my placement adjustments. I use tape and set the bridge on the top. Once I have the scale length position I can mark the front of the bridge . I prefer to use the strings to layout the side to side positioning of the bridge. That I do by pulling the string and setting it on the nut at the slot and centering it on the bridge hole. I can then see the clearance to the edge of the fretboard. I think you can get a better visual using the string.
Once I have the placement correct I drill a 3/16 in hole through 1 and 6 hole on the bridge.
BE SURE TO USE A BACKER AS YOU DRILL TO AVOID TEAR OUT ON THE BRIDGE PLATE. I can then make a rough saddle and using a straight edge , lay this on the 1st fret and on the saddle at the 1 and 6th string. I measure the point above the 12th fret. I am looking for 2/32 on the 1st and 3/32 on the 6th.
Once the holes are set you can pencil the bridge profile by puttin 2 golf tees in the hole and pencil the tape, then cut inside the line with a razor blade and remove the inside tape but let the outside. Then I use my inlay tool to remove the finish about 1/16 in from the line. I then put a small chamfer on the bridge. I want the bridge tight to the top and the angle allows that . I then glue on the bridge .
the point at the 12 fret was pictured with the straight edge set a stated.

[tippie53]

NOW THAT THE BRIDGE IS GLUED ON THE NEXT STEP WILL BE TO FLATTEN AND TRUE THE FRET BOARD.

[songman101]

Hi John

On the bridge I wanted to know, after you outline (pencil) and remove the finish, then bevel the bridge then glue is the 3/32 (drill bit) the desired measurement before saddle ? Ps thanks for a pictorial demo on this process.

The new newbie Stephen Colby

[tippie53]

The saddle on this guitar ended up at .180. don't think that the 3/32 is the saddle what this is would be the point where the actual fret plane will clear over the bridge. As the guitar is strung the bridge will rotate and the top will pull up. I will be posting more pics in the next day or so.
Please feel free to ask any question you feel you need to. I am here to help

[RnB]

When gluing the bridge down on the OMC I just finished, I used your demo as a tutorial to set the compensation. Intonation came out 'spot-on' w/ all the strings & without having to carve up the saddle to achieve intonation. Why is it, most of the guitars these days find it necessary to fit compensated saddles if the method you use doesn't need one...?

[tippie53]

I don't know why. I think because I measure to both strings and most jigs work off a bridge being perpendicular. I measure both strings.
When I started I set up a board and kept moving the bridge till I found a common formula. Over time as the top moves and the bridge rotates you may have to compensate the B