Replacing ribbon side braces with timber

[jjadamson]

I've decided to go with timber side braces instead of the ribbon. Ribbon was supplied with the kit, so what type of timber should I use? Also, what size are they supposed to be? Thanks. John

[tippie53]

Timber was used since the 80's. And it won't add or subtract anything. Usually you want to use the same wood as the side set. It this is not available , find something that looks nice to go with it. These braces are not a tonal brace but an anti split brace.
If you can't find a matching rosewood , then even a glue up of different woods to make it look attractive. You have a design enhancement opportunity. I have even inlaid them on some past guitars.

[jjadamson]

Thanks John, I thought the timber would look more attractive. What size should I make them?

[tippie53]

5/8 in wide and 1/16 in thick is plenty.

[Ben-Had]

I make mine from the cut-offs from the side material, then it will be cross grain to the side. Mine are 1/2" x side thickness (usually .075 to .080' thick, just over 1/16").

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Make sure the grain is running across the side grain.....I usually just use spruce, but have used mahogany too. I like the contrasting wood look.

Kevin

[jjadamson]

Thanks again for everyone's help

[Tom West]

I generally use Mahogany about 1/8" by 3/8" with reversed linings and set the ends about 1/8" past the top of lining to help reduce the stress riser effect. I have seen them much thicker where folks have used them to help remove cupping in the bent sides.
Tom

[Alan Carruth]

Make SURE you inlet those side fillets into the liners! If you don't they form a stress riser right at the edge of the liner. Any force on the side is concentrated at the ends of the fillets, and if it's enough to crack the side, that's where it cracks. If there's any place where it's harder to do a good repair, I can't think of it.

One objection I always had to side fillets was that, being glued across the grain of the side, they might cause cracks. When things get dry the sides want to shrink, but the fillets, being long grain, don't. It was a sort of hypothetical objection until a couple of years ago, when I saw two good quality imported guitars with just that sort of side crack. They had deep boxes, made of a soft wood, and cracked is the flat area below the waist, with the cracks running right across the side fillets. That's the only time I've seen that, and our New England winters were certainly a factor, but still...

[tippie53]

I have used both methods in my guitar builds. I have also inlaid them and used a combination of woods as a design enhancement.
I agree with Alan that you need to address the issue of the supports. A stress riser will stress the end of the joint and may cause a failure. If you are using them to help flatten a side it may help but in most cases they don't hold long. Also as Alan points out, wood by itself can cause a side crack as you have a cross grain stress.
One advantage to cloth is the flexibility of it and light weight. On the other side, if you hit the area of a support you may not see a crack as the wood may take the stress of shock better than a ribbon.
I make my wooden side supports about .050.
My rule of thumb is the customer drives the building methods I use on their guitar. If they want a traditional guitar it's ribbon, some like the design or prefer wood. I'll be building a few guitars next week and will post a series of photos of the methods for 'side bracing.'

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