An EIR Dred in the D45 tradition.....

[johnnparchem]

It looks to fit in the natural color pallet of the shell, I would not sand more. It went from color to less color there is no reason to think that trend would reverse with more sanding. I have gotten into more trouble trying to fix things with more sanding then any other method.

Keep in mind when you are stressing about an area it appears much larger than it really is. The picture shows a nice transition into and out of the less colored shell, nothing to catch an eye.

[naccoachbob]

Kevin, nothing wrong with that zebra look at all. I'm with John on this. If that's the worst of it, you're in very good shape.
I think it's a wonderful job all over.
Bob

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Thanks guys. I'm still contemplating sanding a little there to see what happens....I know, I know!!!
I glued the bindings on the top last night and today I installed the shell purflings there. Putting some layers of CA on now. Will hopefully scrape and sand it down tomorrow afternoon. It looks pretty good, don't want to loose any color on the top, so I'll be careful as I go.

Kevin

[Kevin Sjostrand]

I now have the purflings back and top completed. I'm pretty pleased how it turned out for my first time doing this abalone purflings. I'm NOT going to touch that spot on the back! I had a couple of places where I sanded through on the top, but I got color. I guess they were just a few thousands higher in those spots as the shell is not a consistent thickness. I still have to scrape the bindings on the sides down as they are about .010" proud. Then I'll concentrate on the neck.
Here are a few pics to show it turned out.

Kevin

[Kevin Sjostrand]

...and the back

[johnnparchem]

Kevin,

The body looks great. The shell purfling and rosette looks really food. On the top the black purling lines really sets off the abalone in a classy and clean way.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Thanks John, that arrangement with the black lines worked out just right with the .210" bearing...which is the largest I think that Stewmac makes.

Kevin

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Since last time I routed the tenon on the neck, installed the threaded bolt inserts and mounted the neck to the body for the first time. It fits real good and will not take much finessing. With the fretboard laying on the neck, I have 3/8" clearance at the saddle location...perfect!
I need to take a notch out of the top for the truss rod nut to extend, then I'll start to do some carving on the heel, profile the headstock and start playing around with my headstock inlay. My plan is to start inlaying a contrasting colored wood of a "brush script" style "S" and try and get away from the premade abalone and MOP circle with an "S" that I have been using. I like it, but they are now $25 a piece. Easy to install though, just cut a hole with a 1 1/16" forstner bit and glue it in....hmm, it is easy, perhaps I should just stick with it.....I think I will try and inlay a wood "S" and see if I can do it.
On this guitar I am also going to glue the fretboard onto the neck, tweak the truss rod a touch to create a very slight rise, sand it flat, fret it, and then relax the truss rod to give a little bit of relief. I've not done this before and I want to give it a try.
Okay, a few pic with the neck bolted on for the first time.

Kevin

[naccoachbob]

Kevin, that's an interesting approach to relief. I'm anxious to see how it works for you. Sounds like a good idea.

[johnnparchem]

You guitar is looking great and coming along. I have not tried to sand in relief as you described. I sand flat and figure I will get a bit when the strings are under tension and I use the 2 way truss rods to get more if needed. I do plane relief into my classical guitar fret boards as the necks do not have a truss rod.