1998 Martin HD-28 bridge separating

[Victory Pete]

My 1998 Martin HD-28 had the bridge separating back in 2004. The local Martin Tech didn't use Titebond to reglue it.

(EDIT: Those posts which referred to the separating Martin bridge have been split from the Glue Study into a topic of their own.)

[Tom West]

Pete: The vast majority of guitars built are glued with aliphatic resin glues(Titebond etc). While John has pointed out this type of glue may creep, I think it is not due to the glue but rather how folks treat their guitars. Aside from creep, lots of joint failures are also a result of how well the joint is executed and glued. Let's not throw the baby out with the bath water.
Tom

[Victory Pete]

Pete: The vast majority of guitars built are glued with aliphatic resin glues(Titebond etc). While John has pointed out this type of glue may creep, I think it is not due to the glue but rather how folks treat their guitars. Aside from creep, lots of joint failures are also a result of how well the joint is executed and glued. Let's not throw the baby out with the bath water.
Tom

The Luthier that reglued it made some comment about Martin not removing the lacquer from the top. I found that hard to believe but who knows.

[Tom West]

Pete: A big problem, noted on a number of Forums. Apparently Martin leaves a slight amount of lacquer under the edge of the bridge. The bridge sits on this small amount of finish, I would guess as a time saver that looks good. Most folks think this is giving them problems with finish cracks around the bridge corners. Not sure if this is part of your problem. In these times it's hard for companies to remain competitive when battling against the off shore folks. But still one of the better factory made instruments.
Tom

[Victory Pete]

Pete: A big problem, noted on a number of Forums. Apparently Martin leaves a slight amount of lacquer under the edge of the bridge. The bridge sits on this small amount of finish, I would guess as a time saver that looks good. Most folks think this is giving them problems with finish cracks around the bridge corners. Not sure if this is part of your problem. In these times it's hard for companies to remain competitive when battling against the off shore folks. But still one of the better factory made instruments.
Tom

Okay, thanks for the reply. I didnt have any finish cracks before mine got repaired. I am sure my luthier scraped this lacquer. he also ramped my bridge so it would go back on level even though the topped had bellied a bit. he did a great job. His name is Otto D'Ambrosio.

VP

[tippie53]

Being a Martin repair center, I have seen this happen a few times. Pre-2008, the procedure was masking tape about 1/8 in smaller than the bridge all around, attached to the top at the bridge position prior to finishing. Tape was then pulled and the bridge glued on without removing any more of the finish under the bridge.
Every once in a while the top would peel off the bridge and thus the "lifting" bridge. Simple repair and won't harm anything. Titebond is losing favor with many small builders. Fish glue and Hot Hide glue are superior glues for any operation where cold creep may become an issue.
I have seen Martin bridges move and whether the movement was from neglect or just cold creep is open for discussion. One big advantage to the protein glues is the ease of which the joint can be repaired.
Glad all worked out. Martin is still my favorite guitar. Next to my own of course. LOL.
thanks

[naccoachbob]

As one who is about to put on a bridge next week to a Martin kit, I was thinking of leaving just a small amount of finish under the edges of the bridge.
Is this something I should re-think?
I've done that with my other 2, and no separation so far. I finished the whole top, and will go back and scrape the finish off where the bridge goes. Should I scrape it to the very edges all the way around? Or will letting the finish go under the bridge about 1/16 inch all the way around be ok?
Thanks