"Finishing" my first build

[justrfb]

Hello Tim.
I am headed right to the "finish" line with my first build and I am looking to have a nice, natural wood looking finish. What I mean by that is I am not looking for the "plastic" looking finish on the high end Martins. I think that is beautiful too but I saw what they had to do to accomplish that type of finish. I want my 1'st guitar to look like the stock on my Dad's 30-30 Winchester or like your neck on this build. I want to ask you and others that do the same, if you use the Tru-oil slurry method to pore fill and finish your necks, could you do the same for the rest of the guitar? I have mahogany back and sides, curly maple binding and spruce sitka spruce top. Thanks for your suggestions and beautiful instrument!

Sincerely,
Rich

[Ben-Had]

I want to ask you and others that do the same, if you use the Tru-oil slurry method to pore fill and finish your necks, could you do the same for the rest of the guitar? I have mahogany back and sides, curly maple binding and spruce sitka spruce top.

Absolutely. When you pore fill the body, you'll want to mask off the top and bindings as only the Mahogany needs to be pore filled. And when I use Tru-oil I sand to P1200 grit. Tru-oil likes a nice smooth surface whereas other finishes need something initially to "bite" into. When you pore fill, start by thinning the tru-oil with a 50/50 mix with mineral spirits and use 150 then 220 grit paper. Work in small areas and wipe off the excess diagonally across the grain so you don't pull the slurry out. Let the pore filled areas dry for a day before moving on because it's thicker than when you finish the wood and needs the extra dry time. (edit) After you've pore filled continue sanding with 320 to 1200 grit paper before applying the Tru-oil.

[justrfb]

Thanks Tim!... A follow on question, I hope you don't mind... What do I finish the top and the binding with if I mask them off for pore filling? I am starting to get a little confused... My Dad always taught me to keep things simple. Thanks for your help.

Sincerely,
Rich

[Ben-Had]

The spruce top and maple bindings are close pored and do not need to be filled. You mask them off to keep the mahogany "fill" from staining them. Once the B/S are filled and dried, complete the finish sanding of the B/S. When that is done remove the masking, finish sand the top and bindings and then use the tru-oil on the entire body. At least that's how I approach tru-oil finishing.

[justrfb]

Thank you very much Tim.
That is exactly what I was hoping you were going to say. I appreciate your help.

Sincerely,
Rich

[justrfb]

Hello Tim.
I am in the midst of using the "slurry method" to pore fill on my guitar and have a few more questions. I am loving this method of finishing so far and I just started... I slurred the Rosewood veneer on the head stock and it worked out very well. I did a small section on the side and a small section of the neck last night just to see what it was going to be like and nothing really "slurred" because the mahogany soaked up the Tru-Oil like a starved sponge! I tried sanding the oil on the wood but it was basically gone. it looked nice, real nice and I think it may have filled a little but it doesn't look like the picture of the neck being slurred in this thread a few pages back... For a few particular reasons, I did not cut the oil with spirits. Is that the difference? I will have to cut it if it is... Thanks for the continued help and I will have pictures tonight, if not, tomorrow.

Sincerely,
Rich

[Ben-Had]

I'm not sure, it could be. I've never used it to pore fill without cutting it.