I'm not a repair guy but I will speculate. The black may help hide the repair but it's a bit of an art form to match the sunburst and keep it looking nice.
If I'm correct (and I think I am), that is a poly top and not lacquer. Very hard to hide a crack well in poly especially one that long. Look what he has to go thru just to fix a small chip:
I would have no problem with that repair. I would most likely charge more than my standard per inch price due to the finish though, if the finish was to be repaired. It depends a lot on what the customer is wanting and expecting from the repair. That is a fairly inexpensive guitar ($500 new) and most people would simply want a structural repair with no finish work, or minimal touch up. How difficult it will be will depend on if it needs splinted or not and if the bindings and/or purflings are damaged.
You never know what you are capable of until you actually try....
I may buy this guitar as is, just for the repair experience, and flip it. (obviously at no real profit, other than the experience...) I haven't held it but photos indicate bindings and purflings are intact.
I'd check for loose braces, side condition (can't tell but looks like a drop caused the crack), splint/glue the crack, fill with CA and buff it out.
So, my own expectations are the only ones to be met.
I did a lot of that when I started to get serious about repair work. It really helps and I was able to get more for everyone than I paid, so it was my time and great learning experiences. I have one more left over that I cut the neck off at the body and I am going to make a new neck and cut an M&T to get it back up again but I'm getting lots of work in now so it will have to wait.