Cuban Mahogany and Lutz Spruce 00

[johnnparchem]

I would like to see pictures. From what it sounds like you trim the top and back inside the boundaries of your bindings, sand the rims flat and follow that with a final full cut of the binding rebates.

I had not thought of that. I use my binding jig with a flush cut bearing to flush cut back the top and sides after I glue them on. During the same step I could take a little bit more and as you say get the top and back out of the way.

[Darryl Young]

You nailed it John. It makes scraping the sides flat easier, and more importatnly, more accurate. If you get the sides flat, the binding channels will be cut more accurately. At least it works for me. Of course it isn't my idea.......I read it on a forum somewhere. It might have been Mario Proulx that posted this tip, not certain.

Here are some pictures.

IMG_0832.JPG

IMG_0824.JPG

[Darryl Young]

And a couple more pics (all these from my phone so not the best).

Close up of the rosette, BTW, what do you think about the green strip I used in the outside ring of the rosette? Think it will go with the theme? I will use cocobolo binding and I'm thinking of using a green purfling strip as side purfling as well. This was the first time I had ever in-laid Ablam. I followed John's tutorial he posted here and I think it came out ok. Must be a good tutorial!

IMG_0825.JPG

And a shot of the back:

IMG_0828.JPG

[Darryl Young]

I'm amazed how strongly the back influences the tap tone of this guitar. I guess it doesn't take much energy to set mahogany into motion. If I muffle the back by placing it against my belly and tap the top, it sounds completely different.

"home made binding cutter...?"

Want to share that with us, Darryl??

-tommy

[Darryl Young]

Well, actually it's a homemade binding/purfling channel cutter. I made a post about it back when I built it........but I don't recall if it was on the old forum or this one (the new one).

I'll ook later and see if I can find it and post a link. It has its pros and cons.

[hummingbird]

Looking good Darryl. That rosette is totally pro.

[Darryl Young]

Alain, any success on that rosette is a testament to John's helpful tutorials and advise given on this forum.

[Darryl Young]

Is it possible this build could go any slower??? <smile>

Put the neck on for the first time this weekend. I didn't trim the neck block properly so the plane of the fretboard was about 1/8" proud of the top. I elongate the bolt holes 1/8" and it's ok. I'm guessing I didn't allow enough for when I angled the rims above the sound hole. Any tips to correct this issue on the next build?

I cut the binding strips last night. Made a zero clearance insert for my table saw and used a 7 1/4" Freud Diablo blade which has a 1/16" kerf. Man does that blade cut smooth (have stabilizers either side of the blade). From a suggestion on the OLF I set my fence, lowered the blade, and laid the binding strip against the fence. Then I placed a piece of scrap wood on top (positioned in the middle of the blade) and clamped it to the fence. I removed the binding strip and then raised the blade up into the scrap stock to precut a blade slot. This setup worked well at preventing chip out for this Cocobolo. I was worried about cutting theses small, thin strips safely and without chipping.

Here are a couple of pics of the binding:

[Kevin Sjostrand]

very nice Darryl, those bindings will look SWELL on your guitar.
I would never attempt to cut bindings on my table saw. You did good!

Kevin