Bridge glue

[cockrellc]

I am new at guitar repair and am practicing different repairs. What is the best glue for gluing bridges.

[Freeman]

I am new at guitar repair and am practicing different repairs. What is the best glue for gluing bridges.

The best is often what was on before, but ideally in a repair you will get every bit of the old glue off before putting the bridge back on. As far as the real "best", many will say that hot hide truely is for this joint, it is the thinnest interface, does not have a tendency to move as you are clamping up, and is easily reversable if you ever need to remove the bridge.

However for most of use at home, hot hide is pretty impractical so some form of AR (usually Titebond) is the best compromise. LMI glue is also considered very good (but I haven't used it). Resist epoxy or CA, it is very hard to ever get apart again.

I'll also say that in my opinion, the bridge interface is one of the most critical (it frequently fails). The joint is under both shear and tension and needs to be done perfectly. Clean every bit of finish right up to the edge of the bridge (some leave a very tiny line, but that seems to compromise the joint), build some really good clamping cauls, and do something to make sure the bridge doesn't skate around on the glue as your are clamping (on a repair you can probably use the pin holes, on a new one I like to put several layers of masking tape on to hold it in place). The squeeze out is often tricky to clean up, but if you don't you'll have a line around the edge.

Good luck.

[tippie53]

If the bridge us glued on right , slotted for the string ball end , you can get less shear load and a better connection of the bridge to the top. I use tite bond . On a reglue , just be sure to get back to clear and clean wood.

[cockrellc]

If the bridge us glued on right , slotted for the string ball end , you can get less shear load and a better connection of the bridge to the top. I use tite bond . On a reglue , just be sure to get back to clear and clean wood.

Thanks I appreciate your help. I have a few glues so tite bond it is.

[Darryl Young]

I'm thinking of using fish glue. Doesn't dry as fast as HHG but still resists creep nice.

Anyone have a reason I shouldn't use fish glue for the bridge?

[JJDonohue]

Darryl...I've been using FG for a lot of applications over the years. I have not used it for bridges. Just remember that it takes far longer than HHG to set up. I'd wait at least 48 hours before stringing up just to be safe. Also, cleaning squeezeout is always much more messy than HHG squeezeout. If your clamps interfere with this it could present a problem. With HHG, after 20 minutes, I actually release the clamps to clean up and then re-apply the clamps. I would never consider that with FG since it takes much longer...you might want to experiment with scrap to find out a suitable time that you could release clamps and still be able to clean. Let us know!

But here's the critical question..."What advantage do you expect from using FG?"

[tippie53]

I used many different glues. I think that creep is over exaggerated . I have yet to really see this happen short of letting a guitar in a hot car . I will say that you must find the method that best fits your needs. I only use HHG on vintage instruments . I do like that HHG is the only glue that will reamalgamate to itself.
I normally use tite bond and never had any issues. Fish Glue has its following and I have nothing bad to say about that or HHG , just that they take a different gluing technique than tite bond. There are many ways to do the same thing ,find the technique that works for you . JJ makes a nice instrument and is a more contemporary builder than I. I am more of a traditionalist .
I still like to see new things but I am set in my ways . Once I find something that works I stay with it

[JJDonohue]

JJ makes a nice instrument and is a more contemporary builder than I. I am more of a traditionalist .

Thanks for the compliment, John...but...I'm the one who has used HHG from #1 onward. I would consider Titebond the more contemporary glue.

I actually think we're both hybrid builders...you do traditional dovetails while I do more contemporary bolt-on necks. You use contemporary Titebond; I use traditional HHG. I would like to think that I choose the best materials and techniques of the modern world along with the tried and true materials and methods of traditional building. It all works.

[Ken Hundley]

I have used both Titebond and LMI white glue, and not seen any difference in quality after it is dried. I do like the fact that white glue tacks faster, is less slippery when getting set up, though Ken Cierps bridge clamp has changed that game. I don't have the process confidence to try HHG. Always seems to skin before I get it in place.

[JJDonohue]

I have used both Titebond and LMI white glue, and not seen any difference in quality after it is dried. I do like the fact that white glue tacks faster, is less slippery when getting set up, though Ken Cierps bridge clamp has changed that game. I don't have the process confidence to try HHG. Always seems to skin before I get it in place.

You might find it helpful to warm up the gluing surfaces before applying HHG. I actually microwave my bridge for 10 seconds. It probably doubles the open time.