1st scratch build (Walnut OM)

[Coach]

Rather than posing question in various threads, I'll just go ahead and open a specific thread on a Walnut OM I've started work on. This is my first build, haven't done a kit either. I'll have lots of questions, so I'll use this thread for that, as well as for procedures and issues that come up.

I'm on a slim budget, so I'm planning to have this completed costing less than $100. I think I'll be able to do that, as a friend gave me a plank of Walnut as well as Mahogany. Am not planning anything fancy, will try to get by without binding and purfling.

I salvaged a neck off a ruined guitar, so am hoping that part will work out all right. I did get an AA grade Sitka top, Sitka bracing, back joint reinforcement and blank Rosewood bridge from Timeless Instruments. The plans I'm using are those OM free downloadable from C.Grellier.

The Walnut I'm using for the back and sides is nice, however it's not quarter sawn. Am hoping that'll be ok. So far, I've split it into .25" thick pieces. The sides have been sanded down to .115 and bent. The bending part went well, but I did so without profiling them, were 6 inches wide.

I've also joined the back. So far so good.

A question I do have is about the kerfing. Is it okay to use that excess Walnut that came off when I profiled the sides after bending? It's already pre-bent and fits nicely.

Planning to use this top wood. About 12 LPI all through.


Back, joined, but not sanded to thickness.


Sides bent with linings glued. Needs some cleanup.

[tippie53]

Kerfing is only for glue surface area so that should do fine.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

You know Coach, that is actually a pretty good idea. Bend the sides over width, then cut the excess off to the needed width and profile, and use the cut off for making linings......BRILLIANT!
Already shaped! Now you might want to double up on those, glue them together to give a wider gluing surface, but I like the idea.
Let us know how it turns out. Some of us might want to try it too.

Kevin

[johnnparchem]

Is there enough to get 4 pre bent bindings as well? They would really clean up the look of the sides.

[Coach]

A question for you guys. I want to join a couple tops at the same time. Here's one I'm plannning to use for a Dreadnought. Problem I have is that a wave goes through at the end with the tightest grain, 26LPI. Going down to 16LPI on the outer edge. So would you join like it's laying here, or flip it around?

[darren]

do you have the width to remove that swirl and still fit your dred template? maybe place that in the soundhole?

[kencierp]

Well tight in the center has always been and still is my general rule -- but, there seems to be different views --- here you go, when visiting the Martin factory I took notice of a very, very, very expensive and very ornate rather new I might add, anniversary model on display wide grain in the middle -- so never, say never.

[tippie53]

Actually Ken that wide to the center was how they used to do it . I don't know about what you think but I think I would rather the straighter grain to the center that the wavy.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

My thought also, straighter grain in the middle where the eye is going to go first. I can't see how it's going to affect the top much strength wise, and might look much better.

Kevin

[Jim_H]

I think that having no runout (i.e. straight grain) on the center seam is far more important than where the wide or narrow grain lines are. If straightness and runout are not an issue, all other things being equal, I think where the wider grain lines go is mostly an aesthetic.