Binding a fretboard... how do you?

[ColestineGuitar]

I much prefer bound fretboards, and plan to bind the fretboard of my #1 build. However, it is not well documented how one does this. Cumpiano does not seem to do it. I assume that one does the following:

1. cut fret slots in the rectangular fretboard blank
2. cut the blank to final size (which will be about 1/8" narrower than normal, to allow for two strips of binding)
3. glue on the bindings
4. pound in the fretwire, where the tang has been carefully trimmed to allow for the pretty bindings.
5. attach the bound fretboard to the neck
6. Bask in self admiration

Any advice, oh wise ones (such as Tony, who has recently completed a guitar with a gorgeous bound fretboard)?

-m

[johnnparchem]

That is how I do it, except I do the fret pounding after I glue the neck on the guitar. I like to have one last chance at fixing things like re-level or minor adjustments in the neck angle.
Also I glue the bindings so that they are flush with the top of the fret board. it is easier to plane or scrape off the extra height off of the back of the fret board.

[ColestineGuitar]

Hmmm... interesting! I hadn't thought of gluing flush to the top of the fret board, but it does seem that the fret slots could make scraping difficult. I will be heeding this advice.

Thanks for the help, John.

[Tony_in_NYC]

You have the procedure pretty much correct. I edited your list of procedures below:
1. Make sure you look good. It is always better to look good than to feel good.
2. cut fret slots in the rectangular fretboard blank
3. Admire your fret slots
4. cut the blank to final size (which will be about 1/8" narrower than normal, to allow for two strips of binding)
5. Admire shape of tapered board. Reward yourself with an adult beverage
6. glue on the bindings
7. While glue dries, admire your work. Drink more.
8. pound in the fretwire, where the tang has been carefully trimmed to allow for the pretty bindings.
9. Think about the possible double entendre of "pounding tang". Laugh more than you really should at this.
10. attach the bound fretboard to the neck
11. Bask in self admiration.
12. Laugh about "pounding tang" some more.

Your process seems faster.
John Parchem also makes a good point. Before I glue on the binding, I put a couple of layers of tape on the underside of the FB so that my binding will be proud of the bottom as well as the top. I have not had a problem with scraping the binding flush on the top, but I can see how it could be an issue. Maybe I have been lucky.
I then sand the bottom of the board to make it all flat and the binding flush. I have a long granite slab I use for this.
Try to cut off as little tang as possible so the fret ends dont lift. I cut one side, then recheck where I need to make the second cut. Also, when you glue on the binding, make sure to have a "tool" to remove the glue from the fret slots so you can get your frets seated later. If there is dried glue, it is harder to get out than soft, wet glue. I use a craft stick that I thin down for this purpose on the last FB. I have used other things in the past. A safety razor blade with some scotch tape on it works well too. The tape makes the blade almost as wide as the fret slot and gets the glue out nicely. I also used one of those with the stick as well on the last FB. Any additional questions, let us all know.

[David L]

Well there you have it, seems like pounding, laughing, and admiring are the three most important elements here. Thanks for clearing that up Tony as I am going to bind the fingerboard on this next one and was wondering how much pounding and laughing was required (I'm good on the admiration part).

David L

[kencierp]

I prefer to make the fingerboard a separate assembly bound or not. #54 pilot holes are drill through the 2nd and 13th fret slots into the neck for locating -- leave off those two fret wires and tap them in place after the fingerboard is glued to the neck. Most of the major makers including Martin do it this way -- Seems John has had good luck with his method. There is a risk involved however that the sound board can be cracked if not supported inside the body. As a matter of fact there is a heavy duty device called a "fret buck" invented by Bob Taylor for repairmen that need to install frets when the fingerboard is attached to the instrument.

[johnnparchem]

I use a shot filled 5 pound soft weight from my diving bag when I tap in the inside frets. Doing the frets last is the way I learned building a classical guitar. I also did it this way with Rick (RunningDog) as well. For me it gives me a final chance after all of the finishing to re- level and tweek the neck angle (as seen from the strings) just a bit. I did do the frets into an unglued fretboard on the D28 kit I built and it came out alright; I was following John Hall's videos. so, I could see doing the frets first as well.

[Tony_in_NYC]

I fret the board before gluing it to the neck. Why? Because it has been scientifically proven by a team of really smart guys in white coats with safety glasses to be the best and easiest way to fret a board.
Not really. I made that up. The real reason is that I learned to build using the instructions on the KMG website and that is how it is spelled out in the instructions there. I am very comfortable doing it the way Ken spells out, so I will keep doing it that way. It works for me but might not work for you and your methods of construction or simply your comfort level.
Like any other procedure in building a guitar, this process can be done any number of ways. Obviously, my way is the best because those dudes in the white coats and safety glasses said so. They had some beakers and a bunsen burner too, but I have yet to figure out why. All I know is, they looked real sciencey and smart. Pocket protectors were also present. Like I said, smart.

[kencierp]

I guess I am not getting the concept of "correcting" problems on the neck or fingerboard by fretting after its attached to the guitar idea? Am I to presume that those of us that are fretting first (there are a zillion) are overlooking defects -- what are those problems and how do they affect the end product? If the neck is constructed correctly, the finger-board is true, radius and all, the neck set has been checked before actually gluing or bolting (an absolute to first time quality-do it right right from the start) it is my experience that all will be just fine. Not that I believe it, but on the Martin Factory released video their claim is that fretting the fingerboard first is a quantum quality improvement. What are we missing?

[kencierp]

I should add that on the classics I've built with a Spanish heel I did fret after assembly. How the back aligns to neck foot after it is glued can have a major impact on the neck set angle -- pulled off location a fraction of a degree changes the string plane -- so sanding the FB surface may be necessary to address/correct action problems.