Doing the rims before the plates.

[nkwak]

Looking good Neil. I think the choice of EIR for the binding against the mahogany is going to look awesome.
Don't be afraid to take the sides down a little bit more to get them even, you will be glad you did when it comes time to glue up the back, and if it makes the body a little bit shallower that is not a big deal. Just measure, mark and go slow and don't take anymore off then you have too.


Kevin

Thanks, Kevin,

It's hardly a unique choice but I've seen some tasty example good enough to emulate. My inspiration was actually an R Taylor Style 1 with these tone woods. Since I started mine I've seen a few professional luthiers use this combination as well.

As for taking the sides down even more, since I have the kerfing in already won't it complicate things? Besides, if they're crooked I could always make it into a "wedge" body, right? ;o)

[Kevin Sjostrand]

How much of the sides you have to take them down to make them the same height? Even up to an 1/8" you can get away with on the kerfing. As you take it down you may loose a little surface area for glueing but not much. Just make it as good as you can.
I prefer the less stark contrasts from body to trim/binding. I've never really liked the dark wood, white plastic binding look that much. One thing that is so great building your own, you can do what you want and choose these great combinations.

Kevin

[nkwak]

I like the contrast of the EIR against the cedar but I expect that the mahogany will darken/redden with time. I know what you mean about getting to choose your own scheme. I have a Martin D-16GT with black plastic binding against red-tinted stained mahogany and it irks me that they used black plastic when the heel cap and headstock faceplate are EIR. For this build I'm going to probably use EIR for the fingerboard, bridge and faceplate as well.

[nkwak]

This is probably not worthy of a new thread since it's related but I have to ask about thoughts on what to use for side slats. I've been advised against using black fabric tape and have elected to use some sort of wood for what will essentially be side braces to square up the sides. The inspiration being Jonathan Kinkead's book but my friend YJ John has a Bourgeois 00 that has something similar.

Right now it's looking like the best candidate in the wood pile is a strip of quartersawn walnut. I've already got some strips cut and sanded to S4S that I'll glue in next time. Will the different wood be an issue with regards to changes in humidity though? I should be able to find some mahogany to match the sides if necessary.

BTW, I didn't pay a lot of attention to the profile as I planed away the excess side material at the neck block but I checked and the cross-section of the back rim across the upper bout does indeed seem to be close enough to level for my tastes. There is a bit of bowing out on the back rim but it largely went away when I put all the spreaders back in (across both bouts and a large tail/heel spreader as well) and I'm hoping that the slats will further firm the sides up without the help of the mold until the top is braced and ready to be glued on. I'm also hesitant to scallop the end of the slats as well; I was advised that any brace is only as strong as its thinnest point.

I'm getting ahead of myself though. The next step after the slats is actually sanding in the radius to the rims. I have to check tippie's Blues Creek videos to ingrain the technique into my sleep-deprived subconscious though so that I don't make a mistake at that point! :^D

[Tom West]

Neil: Have always used wood for side support. Mostly Mahogany,and certainly Walnut would do just as well. Slats can give support and help to prevent cracks from traveling. Depending on shape and thickness they can also help to take out some wavyness in the sides. One thing one should be aware of is the possibility of causing a stress riser at the termination of the slat and lining.It's a good idea to inlet the slat into the lining a bit to help prevent this. Some folks still use the tape. Both ways work ,but I prefer the wood.
Tom

[nkwak]

Thanks, Tom, I think I'm going to inlet the slat into the kerfing. When I took the spreaders out I noticed that the back rim bowed out a bit. Would installing slats ease that? If so what dimensions should they be?

[Tom West]

Neil: Just noticed your post,sorry about that. I use quite light slats about 1/8 x1/4 with the 1/4 to the sides. Does not have much effect on taking out wavyness. Have seen other a bit heavier made sort of like finger braces on a top . Tall in the center and tapering to the ends. Don't think you will be able to take out curve at the linings. I've had this and it sands out when you clean up the sides for cutting binding grooves.I think the moisture in the glue for the linings tends to add this feature. Good luck and take care.
Tom

[nkwak]

Thanks for the extra info, Tom. I'll just be sure to keep the spreaders in until I close the box then. As for the slats, I'm going to chisel out one length of kerfing at all the flat areas on the rim and cut the walnut slats tall so that everything comes even when I sand the rims down.

[nkwak]

The slats are in and I just sanded the top rim to a 28' profile:



There was LOTS of sawdust left over though:


I took the opportunity to radius the X brace too:

[tippie53]

Martin used fabric one the sides for years and went with the wood as it used up scraps on the production floor . It is still used on golden era and authentics, Wayne Henderson , John Arnold , Dusenbosel , and many other builders use cloth. I prefer it over the wood . The only purpose is to help with side cracks.