HD28 Kit - First Build

[Rick S]

Here's a few shots of the outside of the rims after the repair. The crack is just to the right of where the two sides meet.

[Rick S]

Here's a top view of the rims and a view from inside the mold after the repair. From the inside view the crack is on the left of the seam. You can see where three lines where the CA glue ran.

[Rick S]

Here's a couple of pics where I'm trying to show my concern about there being a slight taper in the side above the crack. In other words, it was glued with very slight angle.

[David L]

When you cut the portion of the sides at the tail end to accomodate the end graft, heel wedge or whatever you wish to call it, at least that much of the crack will go away (providing that I'm understanding you about where the crack is) The wider the end graft, the less crack remains.

David L

[johnnparchem]

I see nothing to worry; I have major cracks along the grain of the sides near the end blocks. I glued them with CA. Once the sides are glued to the end block the wood will be stable. Also as David says the crack will be mostly cut away when you make an end graft. In any case while you preparing the guitar for finishing the crack should disappear.

[Rick S]

David / John, thanks for your input. It's encouraging so I'll keep plugging away and hope for the best.

[Rick S]

Ok, I pre-radiused the back side of the rims using a 16 foot concave disk and trued up the top side using a flat disk to a point where the top edge is the same height above my mold all the way around. The next step is to pre-radius the top of the rims with a 28 foot radiusing disk which seems to be the trickiest part. I've put reference points on my radiusing jig for where the end of the fingerboard will be and also where the bridge should be. As I understand it, from the saddle to the back end and the end of the fingerboad to the front end are domed with a 28 foot concave disk the middle section should remain flat. The finishing touch is to flatten the neck block area and check for neck angle. I'm going to watch John's video one more time to make sure that I haven't missed anything.

I've taken lots of pictures of the process that I'll upload this afternoon. I do have a question before I begin the next part. The plan I have for a dreadnought doesn't match the kit so I really don't have a clue what the finished height at the neck and tail block should be. Right now my sides measure 4 and 5/8 inches at the tailblock and 3 and 11/16 at the tail block. The thickness of my top and back is about a quarter inch together. This would make my final height of 3 and 15/16 at the neck and 4 and 7/8 at the tail block. Is this close to what the final dimensions should be?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[nkwak]

Good luck with your build, Rick. It looks like you've got lots of good advisers to draw from here.

FWIW you're making good progress regardless. I started my first last August and you just passed me by!

[Rick S]

Good luck with your build, Rick. It looks like you've got lots of good advisers to draw from here.

FWIW you're making good progress regardless. I started my first last August and you just passed me by!

Thanks Neil. What kit are you building?

[David L]

The finished dimensions of my HD-28 (including top and back) are 4 7/8" at the tail end and 3 7/8 at the neck end. From what I understand, plus or minus a few fractions of an inch is not critical, and if I'm wrong about that someone will correct me.

David L