Just started new LMI 1937 Hauser kit

[johnnparchem]

The LMI necks slots are cut at an angle, different than the way Robbie shows. Using a bevel for the angle is the way I did it. Be very carefull with the measurement as the lengths need to be right so you will fit correctly in the mold once glued . You also could mark the center lines on the sides and mark the sides from the center lines half the thickness of the inside of the slot, both front and back. Once marked draw the lines with a straight edge.

[ronin5573]

Thanks johnparchem, I think I will do it as you described. Robbie
In the DVD uses ca glue for the heel joint. Is ca glue the way to go?
I was thinking of using tightbond on a small brush to get glue in the heel joint? Any thoughts!

[johnnparchem]

Thanks johnparchem, I think I will do it as you described. Robbie
In the DVD uses ca glue for the heel joint. Is ca glue the way to go?
I was thinking of using tightbond on a small brush to get glue in the heel joint? Any thoughts!

I used CA glue. I would follow the DVD in this case. Make sure everything is correct before wicking the glue in. btw I also pushed some thin wedges between the heel slot and the side on the inside to push the sides tight against the top of the slot. I ended up with a much better joint on my second when I did this. The tips of the wedges got glued in as thin CA really flows but I just cut the wedges flush to the heel.

[tippie53]

I am not a fan of CA as it makes removal all but impossible at a future time. You can't go wrong with tite bond original , Fish glue or Hot hide glue.
Most musical instruments are designed for be taken apart for future repairs.

[ronin5573]

Just an update. The neck is glued up to the sides along with the tail block and the kerfing are installed. I was torn on if I should put a radius to the back but I decided to follow the plan and build the top and back flat. This is a decision that I might regret, but I will do a 15’ radius on my next build. I’m in the process of gluing the back braces and going to get started bracing the top. I’m still worried about the binding channel and binding installation. In my mind, a really bad binding job can really botch up the whole look of the guitar in the end. Im going to go slow and hope for the best.

[johnnparchem]

I was afraid when I had to route the bindings for my first guitar It went a lot smoother than I thought that it would. Take your time and do not route on the guitar until you are sure you have the right height and depth.

[ronin5573]

Last night i glued up the back. I used a few cam clamps and a few tire intertubes cut up. I dont think i will use the
intertubes again. There is a little overhang and part of the lower bout cracked. I think after i flush cut that part will
be cut off anyway. But i ran a bead of CA glue and then scraped it smooth. I was afraid I would get tear out there when
cuttign the binding channel if I left it. Today I will make a caul for the bridge plate to glue on the bridge. Then I will glue up
the top. How do you reccommend glueing the top. I was thinking of doing it face down so that I can keep the neck aligned.
After a lot of reading, they say the top requires a lot less pressure to glue up. Any advise ?

[johnnparchem]

Assuming you have a spanish heel the neck angle should already be set as you have glued the back to both the rim and the neck block. I like to glue the top face up so that I can make sure I have the top aligned just the way I want it.

I glue the back first with the top fitted and on my solera to assure that neck angle is correct and aligned on center. The solera is shaped with the reverse geometry of the top of the guitar.

This link has some photos of my first Hauser kit guitar project. I moved away from using the tool box and rubberbands to clamp the top and back and now use a bunch of cam clamps.

http://www.kitguitarsforum.com/archives ... 31_0_2_0_C

[tippie53]

I think you are on the right track.

[ronin5573]

I just loaded all the pictures that I took to photobucket
www.photobucket.com/ronin5573