Pore Filling -- SO SIMPLE EVEN A CAVEMAN CAN DO IT!!

[Darryl Young]

How many coats before it starts to get cloudy?

[kencierp]

Actually I did an EIR test strip a couple of days ago with no sealer -- four brushed coats lightly sand in between (320g)very nice. The cloudiness is really not an issue because you can easily sand off the excess. Remember with this product you do not sand back to bare wood.

[Tony_in_NYC]

Ken,
I know you do not manufacture or sell this stuff, so I hope that the questions are not becoming a bother, but here is another one!
Do you level sand this stuff before applying the finish of your choice? Or, does it self level to the point that leveling is not necessary? Or, option three, are the coats of filler thin enough that you dont need to level? Since it is lacquer based and clear, I like the sound of it. I like using z-poxy because it is clear. Mostly. But I would definitely switch if I can get good results with another product that also dries clear and fast.

[kencierp]

I do not mind answering questions -- but thanks for the concern. It sands so easy with 320G I don't think I'd call it leveling, but yes you need to sand out/scrape drips and brush marks.

My new faovorite rattle can product is "Watco" like $5 per 12oz. Seems a tiny bit harder then Deft and also dries a little faster I have not brushed it on, however it is available in cans for brushing. After at least a week, I use my regular level polish schedule 320-1500 wet/dry, Wizard "Final Cut" compound, lastly Wizard "Shine Master" all by hand -- ends up mirror glossy.

I have read how easy it is to use Zpoxy, but from my perspctive I do not see anything easy about what I saw in the three videos --- to me that is safety hazard, supply and labor intense.

[Tony_in_NYC]

Thanks Ken.

[Darryl Young]

Ken, hope you don't mind me resurrecting this thread and asking a couple of questions. It sounds like this stuff sands very easily from what you posted above. To clarify, do you sand the first couple of coats back to bare wood then sand the final coat lightly so a layer is left as a sealer?.......or do you just lightly sand all coats so a bit of each coat is left in the final seal coat?

Only other question, when brushing this, do you use the brush bristles to work this product into the pores or just try to brush on an even coat?

[kencierp]

It seems to me the product has a lot of silica in the formula its a whitish color in the can even though it drys clear if you don't put on too many coats. They do offer an amber which I have not tried. Anyway its fairly new to me too -- I had very good results applying two fairly heavy coats -its dries in a couple hours I sanded that to remove drips. I applied one more coat not as heavy, let that dry and lightly sanded making sure not to sand to bare wood. I intentionally sanded through and it really did not seem to matter under the top coats. However the instructions on the can make it clear that the filler is not supposed to be sanded completely back to bare wood. I top coated with Watco and Deft nitro and they both burned right in -- nicely. Oh yeah use vinyl sealer first as a primer -- I tried Deft sanding sealer and there is a compatibility problem -- I guess sterates? I used the best Purdy natural bristle brush from Home Depot.

[hummingbird]

Ken. Just so I have this straight. Do I use vinyl sealer first before the pore filler? And why do I need sealer if the pore filler is a sealer as well I'm just a little confused.

[kencierp]

The sealer is used to "lock" all the resins and actually micro dust so it does not turn into a very nasty "staining agent". Its especially important to protect the soundboard. When brushing on coatings this seal coat is mandatory.

[hummingbird]

Ok your talking about the soundboard to protect it from staining but do I also put sealer on the back and sides before applying the pore filler?