I guess I need a table saw..

[Jim_H]

The power tool friendly part of my shop is too small for a cabinet saw, and I've shied away from the contractor type saws because I've heard they aren't well suited to this kind of work. I've managed to get along without a table saw this long, but I think I've finally come across something that might push me over the edge to get one...

I need to make this cut. I have a nice 14" bandsaw, but I'm just not sure I can make that work for this.



I could probably do it by hand. I have a couple of decent Japanese pull saws, but I was watching the Bogdonovich DVD's last night and the table slaw sled he uses to cut these is like magic.

I don't need, or have room for a big saw, but I want to get one with a solid chassis that will consistently make good clean cuts. If I'm going to get one, I'm going to want to be able to do various luthiery related things... slotting fretboards, cutting the neck kerf on a classical (like in the image), ripping smaller wood for things like bindings, and cutting neck blocks, etc...

Anyone have any good suggestions for a small (i.e. not a full cabinet saw) but accurate saw?

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Jim,
I have a small inexpensive saw, Ryobi I think, just over $100. I would love to have spent more money on a bigger, better saw, but like you, I am very pressed for space.
The good thing is it does an adequate job....although it could be better.
I am able to do a compound cut on the heel cheeks as you are showing; angled cuts so just the edge of the cheek contacts the guitar body, and a sloped back cut (about 2% for me) on both sides of the cheeks. Making both angles at the same time is nice, with reasonable accuracy.
A jig sled sounds like a good idea for repeatability, I will have to take a look at coming up with something.
Anyway, it does make that operation nice, and then you can rip your bracing stock too.

Kevin

[Winston_S]

What kind of thickness do you need to be able to cut?



I have one of these saws and use it for my model ship building. However, you are limited to about a 1 1/4" cut as it only uses a 4" blade. Not sure if you could mount a larger blade or if they are even available for a saw like this though.. I've had mine for about five years now and have been quite happy with it. Table top is only 12" x 12".

[Jim_H]

I was looking at the Proxxon I saw in Woodcraft the other day (it looks similar to the one Winston linked). It looks nice, and could probably handle things like ripping bindings and maybe doing bridges, but I don't think it handle the cheek cuts,and for what it costs ($400+) I think could get a decent used table saw.

The first picture in this series is the the sled bogdonovich uses . This is the cut I was talking about..



Kevin,

If you woulnd't mind, what model Ryobi saw did you get?

[sawdustdave]

I'm not certain what cut you need to make, but I will pass along info on tablesaws.

Used to work in a ww-ing store. Sold a few tablesaws while there. In my own shop I have an old Jet contractor TS, 10". Works great. The newer Jet's are hybrid, which means that the motor is housed inside the cabinet, but it is NOT a cabinet saw. Less expensive, by far, than the low-end Jet Cabinet saw.

General, etc. all make decent TS's, depending upon pricepoint. Stay away from "portable" contractor saws. These are the ones that you pick up and carry around. IMHO, dangerous and not able to make precision cuts.

Used tablesaws are out there - with cast iron tops and extensions, solid yet not too big. Check out Craigs list and the like. With a bit of elbow grease they could turn out being a great value.

Dave

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Jim,
Turns out it is a Skilsaw....mdl 3305. I got it at Lowes on sale for $105 a couple of years ago.
Not the best, but for what we are doing in guitar building, I think it works fine, and it is small and light weight, on a stand, that I can pick up and move out of my way when needed. Works for me.

Kevin

[Tarhead]

My suggestions are no longer made so you'll need to find them for sale used or New Old Stock..

The older Ryobi BT3000/BT3100 saws are great for small spaces and portability. There is a forum at http://www.bt3central.com/index.php where you can learn all about them.

Inca tablesaws are the best small saws if you can find them. Some include a horizontal mortise table. Search for them. They're out there.

[Darryl Young]

I think a contractor table saw is a good compromise. I'm not crazy about the portable saws. A cast iron table and belt drive are features I would want as they reduce vibration. Also, I prefer an after market fence on most saws. Grizzly makes a good fence at a good price for a contractor saw. As others mentioned, I would buy used and Craigs List is a good source for used tools.

[Jim_H]

Thanks Darrel,

I agree that I think Cast Iron and Belt Drives are going to be my baseline. I haven't really shopped around yet. Mostly because I still haven't figured out where to put it.

I need to re-arrange some things and re-prioritize some tools locations I think.

[Oval Soundhole]

Personally I like my saw....



But you could probably get very good results with a contractor saw as well.