Finally finished … almost!

The Achilles' Heel of Luthiery
MKlee
Posts: 59
Joined: Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:31 pm
Location: Swaziland, Africa

Finally finished … almost!

Post by MKlee »

So I finally completed the finishing steps and couldn't wait to string her up to hear what it sounded like - I'm VERY excited about the way it looks AND sounds!

One final finishing step I'd like to get some input on: I have a very slight gap in my dovetail joint between the neck and the body. The joint was very tight and glued up beautifully but I'd like to fill the gap so that it's a solid surface - any ideas?

I took it to a professional to have the nut, saddle, and setup done and he suggested just using the thicker CA glue, taped well to keep it off the sides and neck and then scraping it back with the point of a razor blade. Any other thoughts?

Mark
Mark Klee
Mark@HeartForAfrica.org
Swaziland, Africa
tippie53
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Re: Finally finished … almost!

Post by tippie53 »

you can use kiwi hard wax shoe polish or black filler for the ebony brown from rosewood
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
Tony_in_NYC
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Joined: Thu Aug 12, 2010 9:11 pm

Re: Finally finished … almost!

Post by Tony_in_NYC »

Do you have a pic of the gap? How big is it?
kencierp

Re: Finally finished … almost!

Post by kencierp »

Minwax filler pencils are sold at most paint, hardware and big box stores. Its a good idea to use two or more colors on any gap, or crack -- this blending "tricks the eye" and the repair will be almost invisible. Star and a few other chemical suppliers also have a similar product.
MKlee
Posts: 59
Joined: Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:31 pm
Location: Swaziland, Africa

Re: Finally finished … almost!

Post by MKlee »

Here are a couple of pictures of the finished guitar and gap. The only place on the guitar that I'm not pleased with the finish is this joint. ANY suggestions would be appreciated.

Ken, are you guys talking about the wax pencils used to fill nail holes from Home Depot?

Thanks again -

(sorry for the picture rotation)
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Mark Klee
Mark@HeartForAfrica.org
Swaziland, Africa
kencierp

Re: Finally finished … almost!

Post by kencierp »

More on Minwax filler pencils:

You can actually melt this product, to make a compatible color I melt a couple of colors into a small puddle. Use a toothpick or what ever to "swirl" the colors so the puddle is multi-colored. While it is still soft push it into the gap. I cutomize a Popscicle stick on my small belt sander to a suitable "mini" non-scratching putty knife.
MKlee
Posts: 59
Joined: Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:31 pm
Location: Swaziland, Africa

Re: Finally finished … almost!

Post by MKlee »

I've also had a couple of "dings" where it appears the lacquer has pulled away from the wood. You cans see one on the top of the tailpiece in the first picture below. I got another while cutting the headstock veneer for the nut.

Any ideas for repairs to dings?
Mark Klee
Mark@HeartForAfrica.org
Swaziland, Africa
tippie53
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Re: Finally finished … almost!

Post by tippie53 »

minwax pencils are a good tool and Ken's method is the same as what I do.
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
kencierp

Re: Finally finished … almost!

Post by kencierp »

For nitro lacquer -- you can make a "clear" dent filler by simply making a small puddle of top coat product on a piece of glass. Just let the puddle dry until it turns into a gel. Make sure the dent is perfectly clean -- a little naptha will do the job. Then fill the dent with a Popsicle stick putty knife -- do a couple of applications -- after the patch is "COMPLETELY DRY" level it with razor blade used as a scraper. If this process is executed properly the dent will be invisible after you re-polish the area.
MKlee
Posts: 59
Joined: Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:31 pm
Location: Swaziland, Africa

Re: Finally finished … almost!

Post by MKlee »

MIne is less a "dent" and more of a separation of the wood and lacquer, I think. Do you think your process will still work - I guess it's worth a try?

BTW, does anybody know how to NOT rotate pictures when they're attached?
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Mark Klee
Mark@HeartForAfrica.org
Swaziland, Africa
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