Binding a fretboard... how do you?

[johnnparchem]

I guess I am not getting the concept of "correcting" problems on the neck or fingerboard by fretting after its attached to the guitar idea? Am I to presume that those of us that are fretting first (there are a zillion) are overlooking defects -- what are those problems and how do they affect the end product? If the neck is constructed correctly, the finger-board is true, radius and all, the neck set has been checked before actually gluing or bolting (an absolute to first time quality-do it right right from the start) it is my experience that all will be just fine. Not that I believe it, but on the Martin Factory released video their claim is that fretting the fingerboard first is a quantum quality improvement. What are we missing?

For me on the steel string the missing thing is the opportunity (maybe I won't need it) to address issues if one of your listed "if"s ended up not being as true as it should be. As I mentioned on my D28 with a dovetail I fretted the board before I glued it on to the neck and it game out OK. But if I had not fretted that guitar, I would have adjusted the fret board to give the guitar a half mm more saddle height.

Like Ken on the classical guitar I fret after. With a Spanish heel sloping the fret board low to high and treble to bass is common. I got it 95% there before I glue it on the fret board as I can take the wood off of the back using shims and my drum sander. I did the final bit after the fret board is glued on. I do not fret until after the guitar is finished.

[kencierp]

John,
As you may know Martin has at least three different bridge thicknesses --- so I would suggest that you shave .014" off the bridge to meet your spec --- just a thought.

[ColestineGuitar]

I'm going to add Tony's steps to my process for sure, even though most of them would happen naturally. John has provided some reasons to fret after assembly, but I'm sticking with my plan of fretting earlier.

Back in the 50's it was a given that you shouldn't pound tang until after, but these days most everyone does it much, much earlier. Social norms change with time.

[Tony_in_NYC]

I'm going to add Tony's steps to my process for sure, even though most of them would happen naturally. John has provided some reasons to fret after assembly, but I'm sticking with my plan of fretting earlier.

Back in the 50's it was a given that you shouldn't pound tang until after, but these days most everyone does it much, much earlier. Social norms change with time.

That's what I'm talking about.
The man is a genius. GENIUS!! Bringing back the tang joke was timely and you even used it extremely well. Good stuff.

[johnnparchem]

John,
As you may know Martin has at least three different bridge thicknesses --- so I would suggest that you shave .014" off the bridge to meet your spec --- just a thought.

Thanks, I agree for my D28 that would have been a good thought.

John

[Kevin Sjostrand]

I bound the fretboard on my last guitar and now I think I'm sold on this. The feel is so much better and pleasing, and you don't see filled fret slot ends that may not perfectly match the surrounding wood on the edges.
I slotted, trimmed to size, and radiused the fretboard before gluing on the binding. I also recut the fretslots after radiusing, and before glueing on the binding to be sure the slots at the edges were deep enough. I glue the bindings flush with the bottom of the board, and then used my radiused sanding block to sand down the top of the binding flush with the board...simple and quick. I will state as others have, make sure you clean the glue out of the slots that will squeeze in there when you clamp the bindings in place.
A quick few passes of the bottom on the granite surfaced with sandpaper cleans and trues up the bottom of the fretboard.
I glue the fretboard to the neck before fretting it, but, I fit the neck to the body and check for flatness, etc before I fret too. Because I do a bolt on neck, this is easy to do, then remove the neck. I then fret all the slots, and can lay the extension on the hard flat surface to fret those slots. At this point the neck can be bolted back onto the guitar, truss rod adjusted as necessary, and the frets can be leveled, etc.
This technique has worked well for me.

Kevin

[ColestineGuitar]

Okay, I'm zeroing in on a process that should work well for me. I will need to make a long, narrow caul for each side, and I should clamp in such a way that the slots are still accessible for glue clean-out.

The only funky variable left is how to do the b/w/b that will purfle the neck. I imagine that I will need to make some kind of backing, since purfling isn't as thick as binding.

Build number one is an exercise in ignorance.

[JRHall]

Take a flat piece of plywood or board that's about 50 % longer than the fretboard. Lay the raw fretboard in the middle, fasten a strip of wood snug on each side of the fretboard. now remove the fretboard.

apply the binding then slide the fretboard into the device you just made, as it moves towards the narrow end, the strips clamp the whole length.

Jim

[kencierp]

Here's the fixture I use to bind a fingerboard -- same wedge clamping method as joining top and backs. Just make sure you have the plastic packing tape under the FB so it does not stick to the table -- you can do one at a time or both use a Popsicle stick or putty knife to push the binding down against the table ---- keep it simple!

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/Jo ... alves.html

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Take a flat piece of plywood or board that's about 50 % longer than the fretboard. Lay the raw fretboard in the middle, fasten a strip of wood snug on each side of the fretboard. now remove the fretboard.

apply the binding then slide the fretboard into the device you just made, as it moves towards the narrow end, the strips clamp the whole length.

Jim

I don't know how I did not think of using this method for clamping the binding in place...DUH!
Thanks Jim! It shall be done this way from now on.

Kevin