Leveling frets

[jasonjeremiah]

Just a question about leveling frets. I've read several posts from this forum and others that lots of people use flat files or beams to level frets. My fretboard and frets are 16" radius so wouldn't I need to use a 16" radius block or beam to level the frets rather than something that's flat? I have one of the wooden radiused blocks. Should I use this to level the frets? Thanks.

[tippie53]

I do not use a radius block to set the frets , I do that on the board . Mark the frets with a sharpie and use a true straight flat file and work the frets down to get the marks off . Once the frets are leveled remark the frets and crown them . I will soon have a vid on your tube about that . There is a fretting vid out there now . Prep is everything .

[kencierp]

Ditto JH - don't use a contour sanding block.
I've used the Don Teeter methods for many years


http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/fretdressing.html

[jasonjeremiah]

I guess I don't get the sense in using something flat to level something that has a pre-determined radius. Isn't the object to have the frets maintain a radius? Wouldn't a dead level beam or file tend to remove more of the fret in the center, since it's higher there? I guess I just don't understand the reasoning, but you guys have built lots of guitars, so who am I to question. Thanks for the help.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Jason,
I just fretted a board on Saturday. As John said, I first made sure the fretboard was flat. Then I marked the tops of all frets with a black marker, and used a long narrow file laid across the frets with light pressure to file away the black. The file if you are careful will follow the radius out the the edges, just keep it perpendicular to the frets, and don't remove any more material than you have to, then reblacken them and do your crowing. It is easy, and you will maintain the radius on the frets.
Now using something too wide to level with will give you problems, such as potentially taking more off the center than the outside ends of the frets.
Give it a try, you can do it, good luck and tell us how it goes.

Kevin

[kencierp]

The flat sanding surface hits the apex along the curve (cord section) of each fret it does not take material off the entire fret at once --- the process averages the height and takes off just the high spots. Does a rotory lawn mower have a curved blade? That device cuts the grass level regardless of angles or slopes -- averages. I can assure you this is not mine or John's idea or process you'll fine the same advice in most construction publications. There's been plenty of fret jobs and fingerboards as well, ruined with those curve sanding blocks --- I know of several guys on this forum that have done exactly that ---

[jasonjeremiah]

Believe me, I'm not questioning your method. I was just trying to get my mind around the reasoning. I'll follow the instructions on your website and let you know how it goes. Thanks.

[kencierp]

Using the black marker on the fret crown as John mentions is a very good idea -- I plan to edit the instructions to add that step -- highly recommended!

[Darryl Young]

Jason, If you put a flat file on the centerline and moved it end to end over and over, then you are correct that it would remove the radius from the frets. That's not what you want. Instead, move the file (or whatever flat surface you are using to level the frets) from side to side following the radius of the fret till they are level. And as was pointed out above, if you blackened the top of the frets before you started, you can tell it's leveled when the black is removed from the tip of the frets from one end of the fret to the other.

[jasonjeremiah]

Thanks for all the replies. You have clarified what I was misunderstanding. I'll use a flat long block and follow the radius of the fret board.