Yellow Cedar L-1
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Re: Yellow Cedar L-1
1) Plane and scrape
2) The side looks great
3) Elegant and understated, just what I was after
2) The side looks great
3) Elegant and understated, just what I was after
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Ed M
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Re: Yellow Cedar L-1
Screams quality and elegance.ruby@magpage.com wrote:...3) Elegant and understated, just what I was after
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Re: Yellow Cedar L-1
Thanks Dan
It's very satisfying when it finally looks like what you had hoped for. I still need a little quality consistency in a couple things, but I am very happy
Ed
It's very satisfying when it finally looks like what you had hoped for. I still need a little quality consistency in a couple things, but I am very happy
Ed
Ed M
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- Posts: 1564
- Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 8:03 am
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Re: Yellow Cedar L-1
1) Back to neck stuff. First check that the area that the neck will rest on is square and flat enough for an easy installation
2) Looks near perfect with no work
3) Now to open up the neck mortice hiding just below the joint in the sides - I am bolting on the neck
2) Looks near perfect with no work
3) Now to open up the neck mortice hiding just below the joint in the sides - I am bolting on the neck
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Last edited by ruby@magpage.com on Thu Jun 14, 2018 8:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Ed M
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Re: Yellow Cedar L-1
1) Clean up the edges with a chisel
2) Clean it out - I am using one bolt down low on the theory that the upper bolt does nothing - the joint is in compression up there
3) Always have to forget something! Here I forgot to put the groove in the neck block that holds the business end of the truss rod. I will wait until I get the neck made to cut that groove
2) Clean it out - I am using one bolt down low on the theory that the upper bolt does nothing - the joint is in compression up there
3) Always have to forget something! Here I forgot to put the groove in the neck block that holds the business end of the truss rod. I will wait until I get the neck made to cut that groove
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Ed M
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- Posts: 1564
- Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 8:03 am
- Location: Chestertown Maryland
Re: Yellow Cedar L-1
1) Position the bridge, lay the fretboard on, put 2 shims on the board the same thickness as the height of the fret crowns I will be using, and use my 1880's Stanley 14" bevel gauge to check for neck angle. The shim closest to the soundhole is .004" down - close to perfect for fall-off of the extension.
2) Measure the angle - just a touch less than 2°. Happy loofier
2) Measure the angle - just a touch less than 2°. Happy loofier
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Last edited by ruby@magpage.com on Thu Jun 21, 2018 10:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
Ed M
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Re: Yellow Cedar L-1
Ed, this guitar is looking really fine. You know she is really going to sing!!!! That cedar was a great choice.
Kevin
Kevin
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Re: Yellow Cedar L-1
Time for a fretboard - This one will have binding and a purfling line in abalone, as well as abalone shapes down the frets
1) Square up the fretboard blank and cut frets - I am using a 25.34" scale for this one
2) Plane a 16" radius on the board - get close . . .
3) The ebony really looks polished after a sharp blade
1) Square up the fretboard blank and cut frets - I am using a 25.34" scale for this one
2) Plane a 16" radius on the board - get close . . .
3) The ebony really looks polished after a sharp blade
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Last edited by ruby@magpage.com on Wed Jul 04, 2018 8:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
Ed M
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Re: Yellow Cedar L-1
1) . . . then mark with chalk and sand with my home-made radius block til the chalk disappears
2) Cut the taper - I am using a 1-11/16" nut width. The block plane is a Stanley 65. It is low-angle like the 60-1/2, but its blade is 1-3/4" wide instead of 1-1/2", and the bed is 7" long instead of 6". My favorite block plane with the comfortable knuckle-joint cap - great for surface smoothing, just like the 62 and 64 Stanley's that are currently being copied
3) Clamp it to the body to make sure the width is right to have the strings be even all down the board on the way to the bridge with a 2-1/4" spacing
2) Cut the taper - I am using a 1-11/16" nut width. The block plane is a Stanley 65. It is low-angle like the 60-1/2, but its blade is 1-3/4" wide instead of 1-1/2", and the bed is 7" long instead of 6". My favorite block plane with the comfortable knuckle-joint cap - great for surface smoothing, just like the 62 and 64 Stanley's that are currently being copied
3) Clamp it to the body to make sure the width is right to have the strings be even all down the board on the way to the bridge with a 2-1/4" spacing
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Last edited by ruby@magpage.com on Tue Aug 21, 2018 7:12 am, edited 2 times in total.
Ed M
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- Posts: 1564
- Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 8:03 am
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Re: Yellow Cedar L-1
1) Bought these abalone inlays. The two on the board are stuck with a drop of shellac
2) They are all stuck on - now I outline each with fresh #11 blade
3) FOUND THIS ON MY BENCH while cleaning and can't remember what it is for - ANY IDEAS?? There is a flat side to the shank.
2) They are all stuck on - now I outline each with fresh #11 blade
3) FOUND THIS ON MY BENCH while cleaning and can't remember what it is for - ANY IDEAS?? There is a flat side to the shank.
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Ed M