A pair

[B. Howard]

Next I rough shape the lower tone bars, much as I did the finger braces. I am only worried about really shaping the ends that will but against the X brace at this point. Final shaping of these is the last part of my voicing process.First they are planed to an overall height quickly with a block plane.

IMG_3708.JPG

Next they are rough shaped to profile with a chisel.

IMG_3709.JPG

And then I thin and sand the ends that will but the X

IMG_3710.JPG

[B. Howard]

The ends of all the braces that have been glued to the top are now cut back to the lines tha mark out the X brace. This is done with a small back saw and a chisel. I take great care not to cut into the spruce of the top when doing this as that would weaken the top in a critical area. The X braces are glued on using my go bars.

IMG_3712.JPG

Followed by my bridge plate.

IMG_3717.JPG

Now the tops are ready to begin their final voicing. The first step is to lay out my desired profile on the X braces. This is done with a set of templates. I will then carve them down to the lines with my chisel.

IMG_3726.JPG

[B. Howard]

After I have the height and shape about where I want it the brace ends are cut off just enough behind my template lines to allow the rims to be glued in place. The ends are brought to the proper height with a pillow block and file just as I did the ends of the back braces.

IMG_3729.JPG

Now I will begin to thin the braces down. Using a 1" chisel I carefully shave them to a triangular cross section. I shave them to point that I am comfortable with at his point.

IMG_3730.JPG

Now it is time for another round of deflection testing. The readings from these tests will be my guide to the final shape of the X braces. Readings are taken in both directions and the braces shaved and contoured until I hit the numbers I am looking for. I work the sides first and if need be will adjust the height of the braces as well to get my desired flexibility. While not the most scientific looking rig, it offers me a way to achieve very consistent results.

IMG_3731.JPG

[B. Howard]

I tend to think of carving the X braces as tuning the top. Not for any reference to a pitch, but more like a race car Chassis. Tuned to be flexible in certain ways and areas and stiff in others. Once this is done the final step is to carve the lower tone bars. This I do by ear. Again not with reference to any pitch but to a quality of sound and for attack and decay of that sound. This is the only part of my voicing process that is the least bit subjective, this is where a part of me enters every guitars voice to help compliment the natural voice of the wood that all the deflection testing has brought out. after this step all braces are sanded smooth and just as the back the entire inside surface is polished with some Scotchbrite. I then sign and date my top and it is ready to have a soundbox constructed on it.

IMG_3732.JPG

In the mean time I have had time while waiting for glue to set so I have prepped my head and tail blocks, made sure I will have clearence for my trus rod adjustment wrench and moved back to my necks. I have slotted my fret boards with my shop made miter box. And have also started cutting pearl diamonds for the position markers.

IMG_3713.JPG

IMG_3707.JPG

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Moving along nicely there.

Kevin

[B. Howard]

Now it is time to start assembling the soundboxes. I do not trim my rims to length before they are bent. I do not use molds so this allows me the flexibility to obtain the best fit.The sides are clamped to the top and adjusted for the best natural fit to the outline, the center-line on each end is marked and the rims cut to final length. The best tool I have found for this is my Great Grandpappies miter saw.

IMG_3735.JPG

The first set of linings can then be glued to the rims. Glue and how much to use seems to be a problem for lot's of folks when they begin woodworking. I run a bead of glue on from the bottle and then spread it out with a small brush. I want a complete , thin and even covering of glue on the surface.

IMG_3787.JPG

These are then clamped on with close pins that have rubber bands added for extra clamping pressure.

IMG_3737.JPG

[B. Howard]

Once the linings are on I can trim them for the head and tail blocks and lay out for all the bracing pockets. The lining ends are marked with a rule and trimmed back. The rims are then held on the top and the brace locations marked.

IMG_3738.JPG

For the upper transverse I want to remove the lining completely so I cut at my marks with a small back saw and pair out the section with a chisel.

IMG_3741.JPG

IMG_3742.JPG

[B. Howard]

For the X braces I want to create snug fitting pockets in the linings to accept the brace ends. I do this with a trim router. The rim is clamped to the edge of my bench and I just zip out the pockets, quick and easy.

IMG_3744.JPG

The rims are then test fitted. I check very carefully that the linings and rims are in complete contact with the top. I do this by candeling just like with the plate halves.

IMG_3743.JPG

Some small adjustments are made to the pockets with a chisel until I am happy with the fit then it is time to glue the rims to the top, one side at a time.

IMG_3747.JPG

[B. Howard]

The other side is glued on in the same manner.

IMG_3748.JPG

I also do not profile my rims prior to bending, again to allow me some latitude in final fit up and maintain the precise shapes that I want. Next i use a pattern to mark out the profile of the rims. I use a colored pencil here to make it easy to see.

IMG_3749.JPG

The rims are quickly brought down to my lines with a spokeshave. The rosewood forms little curls tha stay hooked on the shave and need cleared away fairly often.

IMG_3751.JPG

[B. Howard]

In short order the rims are at the proper profile and we can continue building.

IMG_3753.JPG

Now the linings can be glued in for the back in basically the same way as the ones for the top.

IMG_3755.JPG

These are left intentionally a bit high, this allows me to get the proper angles I need so the linings match the curve s of the back.

IMG_3762.JPG