Shooting Joint On Top & Back

[Ben-Had]

Ben, it's not apparent to me how the jig is held perpendicular to your table saw (I'm sure I'm overlooking something obvious). So if you place the top/back halves against the wooden jig sticking up in the air, what keeps the jig 90 deg to the surface of the table saw?

I guess if you move both halves together across the sandpaper, it doesn't make a big difference if you are slightly off 90 deg.......wouldn't the two surfaces still mate up perfectly? Of course, I want to be as close to a 90 deg joining surface as possible.

If you look at the left end you'll see the bolt and black knob used to screw it down to the table saw. There is one on both ends. I had to drill the holes in those locations thru the table top (some may not want to do that) but the top is pretty much dead flat and the bolts make the fence very stable (of course check it with a square).

[Jim_H]

That looks like the remains of one of Tracy's "Easy Jointer" systems.

http://www.luthiersuppliers.com/products/p11.html

I read about these on Kathy Matsushita's site.

[Ben-Had]

That looks like the remains of one of Tracy's "Easy Jointer" systems.

http://www.luthiersuppliers.com/products/p11.html

I read about these on Kathy Matsushita's site.

Exactly, had trouble with the glass (and getting square joints), this solved the problem and salvaged the fence. I use the glass for sharpening my chisels (scary sharp method) and haven't decided what to do with the base yet but I'll figure something out.

[kencierp]

Keep It Simple!!! Take advantage of gravity -- why do a balancing act?

[Darryl Young]

I think you are right Ken. I assume it's not difficult to put a slight bit of pressure on the edge being sanded even when the wood is laying flat on a horizontal surface is it? Seems you would want to avoid too much pressure.

[deadedith]

Darryl, it's easy. I use melamine for the surface because it is easy to glide the top material on. 220 grit, careful pressure, and there you go.