Starting violin #5. Stay tuned.
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Starting violin #5. Stay tuned.
I'm using non traditional woods again.
For this one, Redwood for the top and a wood that looks alot like walnut but I think it's something else for the back and sides and neck.
I have the side strips cut and thinned to .045"
The top plates are joined and the back plates are joined.
Both are 7/8" thick.
The first step will be to bend the side pieces.
I made a new mold and already have spruce block attached and shaped ready for the sides.
For this one, Redwood for the top and a wood that looks alot like walnut but I think it's something else for the back and sides and neck.
I have the side strips cut and thinned to .045"
The top plates are joined and the back plates are joined.
Both are 7/8" thick.
The first step will be to bend the side pieces.
I made a new mold and already have spruce block attached and shaped ready for the sides.
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- Posts: 3935
- Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:06 pm
- Location: Visalia, CA
Re: Starting violin #5. Stay tuned.
I'm moving along on this build.
I bent the side pieces for the corpus and finished gluing them to the blocks today. The sides sections are about 1/16" taller than the blocks which are at 1 1/4".
So the sides are glued on slightly proud. I trim them down carefully close to the blocks then sand both sides of the corpus flat to the blocks on my sanding board.
Once that was done I trimmed the C bout corners to make them square to the sides.
Then I could use the corpus to mark off the profiles on the back and top plates. There are 2 lines. One is the outline of the body which will be there as a guide for gluing the top and back onto the corpus. The outer line is a overhang that is part of the structure.
Then I used a marking block and scored a line around the edge of both plates that will be starting point for the edge thickness. Beginning at 6mm. Ultimately it will be 4mm.
Now I can begin removing material and start to establish arching on the back plate.
I bent the side pieces for the corpus and finished gluing them to the blocks today. The sides sections are about 1/16" taller than the blocks which are at 1 1/4".
So the sides are glued on slightly proud. I trim them down carefully close to the blocks then sand both sides of the corpus flat to the blocks on my sanding board.
Once that was done I trimmed the C bout corners to make them square to the sides.
Then I could use the corpus to mark off the profiles on the back and top plates. There are 2 lines. One is the outline of the body which will be there as a guide for gluing the top and back onto the corpus. The outer line is a overhang that is part of the structure.
Then I used a marking block and scored a line around the edge of both plates that will be starting point for the edge thickness. Beginning at 6mm. Ultimately it will be 4mm.
Now I can begin removing material and start to establish arching on the back plate.
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- Location: Kansas City, MO
Re: Starting violin #5. Stay tuned.
Thanks for showing us your new project. I can't believe you're on #5! You are doing wonderful work on these and I will look forward to seeing another violin being created. Very cool!
Kevin Doty
Kansas City
Kansas City
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Re: Starting violin #5. Stay tuned.
Thanks Kevin
I think every guitar makers should make at least one violin. It's very stimulating
I think every guitar makers should make at least one violin. It's very stimulating
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Re: Starting violin #5. Stay tuned.
I'm tempted to make one, but can't play fiddle at all....
So I mentioned it to the banjo/dobro player in my band, and she said maybe Santa would bring her a fiddle this year.
So now that it has a destination, I may dig in!
I'd take suggestions for plans / instructions - I like to read up for research.
So I mentioned it to the banjo/dobro player in my band, and she said maybe Santa would bring her a fiddle this year.
So now that it has a destination, I may dig in!
I'd take suggestions for plans / instructions - I like to read up for research.
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- Posts: 3935
- Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:06 pm
- Location: Visalia, CA
Re: Starting violin #5. Stay tuned.
I'm sure you can make one.
I have two books but this is the best one. I comes with hand drawn but to scale plans that can be copied and cut out for tracing, etc. It was written in 1973 but is only archaic in the mentioning of where to but tools and such.
Of course you'll find all kinds of videos online that are a great help.
Get this book. I bought my first maple from a guy on ebay who harvested the wood himself over many years. I can look him up.
International Violin is the main place for all wood and supplies needed at a reasonable price.
I have two books but this is the best one. I comes with hand drawn but to scale plans that can be copied and cut out for tracing, etc. It was written in 1973 but is only archaic in the mentioning of where to but tools and such.
Of course you'll find all kinds of videos online that are a great help.
Get this book. I bought my first maple from a guy on ebay who harvested the wood himself over many years. I can look him up.
International Violin is the main place for all wood and supplies needed at a reasonable price.
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Re: Starting violin #5. Stay tuned.
Ordered, thanks.
Wood isn't an issue - I've got a good supply on hand that should suit.
Wood isn't an issue - I've got a good supply on hand that should suit.
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- Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:06 pm
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Re: Starting violin #5. Stay tuned.
Super
Just jump in but don't fiddle around š just dive right in.
Just jump in but don't fiddle around š just dive right in.
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- Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:06 pm
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Re: Starting violin #5. Stay tuned.
I've started carving the back. Edge thickness at this point is 6mm. I still have alot of material to remove. Next step is to mark the edge thickness at 4mm and take it down to that line as I continue the shape the arching. 4mm is the final so I have to carve carefully.
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Re: Starting violin #5. Stay tuned.
Not there yet but taking shape.
I used a Dremel attached to a base to take the edge thickness down to about 4.5mm an in 3/8" so I'd have a fairly level ledge later for the purgling install.
Then I began carving again refining the arches.
I used a Dremel attached to a base to take the edge thickness down to about 4.5mm an in 3/8" so I'd have a fairly level ledge later for the purgling install.
Then I began carving again refining the arches.
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