Pore Filling Bubinga

[Stray Feathers]

I'm starting to work on a bubinga/ western redcedar guitar, and, planning ahead, have read varying opinions on whether bubinga needs to be pore filled. Finish will be lacquer. What would you do? Bruce W.

[tippie53]

yes
I used aqua coat from LMI
I used 2 seal coats scuff sanded with 220
filled 3 coats with a light sanding between application 1 hr apart
2 seal coats
light level sand with 800
6 coats of mowhawk instrument lacquer 3 weeks cure

came out very well

[Stray Feathers]

Thanks John - I have bought some Aqua Coat to try so will give it a go on the bubinga. Did you use it "clear" or did you tint it? I've used Mohawk filler, tinted very dark, on my most recent walnut guitar, which looks good, but found it stained purflings, even after two vinyl sealer coats. So I am hoping a clear filler will avoid that problem.

[Diane Kauffmds]

Thanks John - I have bought some Aqua Coat to try so will give it a go on the bubinga. Did you use it "clear" or did you tint it? I've used Mohawk filler, tinted very dark, on my most recent walnut guitar, which looks good, but found it stained purflings, even after two vinyl sealer coats. So I am hoping a clear filler will avoid that problem.

I know you asked John and I'm sure he'll give you the benefit of his experience. I always use it clear, with the exception of one time. It's water-based, so I used water-based dye in it. It worked fine with the dye. But it's made to be used clear. I seal all of my guitars with 2 coats of shellac prior to using Aquacoat. I've found I use a lot less Aquacoat when the guitar is sealed first. If you don't seal it, it seems to take forever to fill.

[phavriluk]

Time to use some scrap pieces and test. Discussion, opinions, and somebody else's techniques don't substitute for direct experience.

[tippie53]

clear the only time I color it is when I do rosewood
I do not use mohawk tints i use color tone and the one from LMI they are a stain and won't be apt to bleed

[Stray Feathers]

Thanks - I will try all suggestions. Carved and sanded back braces last night, so don't need to open the AquaCoat just yet . . . Bruce W.

[Diane Kauffmds]

Time to use some scrap pieces and test. Discussion, opinions, and somebody else's techniques don't substitute for direct experience.

No advise doesn't substitute for experience, but they allow people to consider techniques they may not have thought of.

[Stray Feathers]

Resurrecting this thread with a couple more questions about AquaCoat. I have used Mohawk vinyl sealer (2 coats) on this bubinga guitar, and a rosewood dreadnought. I sanded, and now have 2 coats of AquaCoat on both, sanding with 320 between. Two questions: 1) The Aquacoat seems to leave an almost waxy finish on the wood. Is it okay just to scuff-sand it so long as it is level? Will the next sealer coats stick? And 2) I have a few tiny specks of white after sanding, dusting with compressed air and tack cloth, and wiping with naphtha. Some I can pick out with dental tools, others seem to be deeper. I am tempted to tint a small quantity of AquaCoat and try to carefully stain the deeper bits dark, blend the stained grain lines with the surrounding area, and put on another clear coat. Is that feasible? I have some Mixol tints and the Mixol site says they can be used even with water-based products. Has anyone used them with AquaCoat? Thanks in advance for your thoughts - Bruce W.

[Diane Kauffmds]

You'll get those white specs if the Aquacoat wasn't completely dry when sanded. This happened to me the first time I used it. I applied it too heavy, then sanded. Unfortunately, the only way I could get rid of those specs in the pores was to sand it all away and redo.

I have to go back many years to remember. If I remember correctly, the Aquacoat won't dye well once cured. You could experiment by using a tiny brush and applying dyed Aquacoat to a couple of those pores with the white specks.

If you tint the filler, use water-based dye.