Pore filler over sealer?

[Stray Feathers]

I am making a wenge and spruce tenor uke. I knew the wenge was very porous, but it was a free scrap so decided to try it. At this point it has had two coats of Mohawk vinyl sealer, and then three applications of Mohawk uncoloured pore filler, made as dark as I could with Minwax black and ebony stain, and some Mixol black colorant, followed by two more coats of sealer. As you can see in the photo, the grain is still visible. Can I put more coats of filler over the second coats of sealer? I would sand before doing so. Is there another pore filler that would fill better, that I can use over the Mohawk products, followed by Mohawk sealer again, and Mohawk lacquer? Thanks, Bruce W.

[RHayes]

Bruce, a couple of days ago I sprayed black Mohawk lacquer on my 00 project. I thought the grain was filled but the neck and back show more grain than what you have going on so I look forward to the consensus here. Sanding back is an option, but I was hoping there was something I could apply over what I have.

[tippie53]

filling is about technique and material
I use aqua coat over 2 coats of sealer , scuff sand apply 3rd coat of filler then seal ( 2 coats ) level sand and apply finish.
follow the directions on the can I have learned that if you get on the filler too early you pull as much out as you put on.

[phavriluk]

I hesitate to comment in the presence of an expert, but I'm dumb enough to offer a little bit: I can apply coat after coat of anything, but no smoothness will come of it. I need to fill the valleys and lop off the hills. I don't know what are the right materials for OP to use. All I've ever used is z-poxy and rattle-can Minwax nitro. However OP can achieve that, filling and leveling - - - with the aid of a sanding block or RO sander, will tell the tale. NO hand sanding without a block. Smoothness results from the removal of finish, not its addition.

[tippie53]

how are you applying this?
most fillers will have to "flash off" first so they are starting to dry. call me

[tippie53]

I like to apply filler and use a squeegee like method once with the grain then against.
As it starts to flash I use a coarse rag denim material and buff it in. allow to cure over night and scuff sand using a medium hard block.

[Stray Feathers]

Yes, I've been doing it this way, John. I did a walnut guitar too and it is much better, though not perfectly smooth, so maybe it's just the extra-porous wenge. I sometimes find I have a little residue after I'm done rubbing and wiping, and I'm leery of the "dusty" look; maybe I'm taking too much off. This is a bit of a learning piece anyway, so I think I will sand it some more and do another application (or two) of filler. I also have a 12-string headplate made of the same wood, same issue. Thanks to all for the input.

[phavriluk]

OP might experiment using a squeegee (Bondo spreader, credit card) to remove excess filler instead of wiping. It's possible that wiping with a cloth allows filler to be scooped out of pores and a squeegee wouldn't do that. Other considerations, no ideas.

[Diane Kauffmds]

I apply 2 to 3 coats of shellac, allowed to dry throughly, then Aquacoat. I use a small amount on a paper towel, that I work into the pores in a circular motion. I allow it to dry thoroughly, sand it smooth, then repeat.

I've learned to use a very small amount of Aquacoat. I quickly spread it over the sealed wood in a small circular motion, which seems to work it into the pores well. Since I use it so thinly, it dries completely within an hour. My guitars are usually pore filled with 2-3 coats. I have had to apply a 4th on super deep pores.

I learned that the secret is to make sure your wood is really sealed first, otherwise the Aquacoat just shrinks into the pores instead of filling. Woods with deep pores, like wenge or walnut, may seem sealed, but may have tiny voids because of their pores. I use a 3rd wash coat of shellac for this reason.

[Stray Feathers]

Thanks for this Diane - I did use two coats of vinyl sealer to begin but perhaps needed more. I'm using Mohawk filler in the spirit of product line consistency, but more and more I think I will try Aquacoat; I can get it from Lee Valley, perhaps elsewhere here in Canada. My only other experience with fillers is one sold under the Brite-tone name, supposedly clear and water-based, but my recollection is that it was very difficult to sand (I may have left too much on) and that it left white lines in the grain, and a hazy appearance in places (again, maybe not sanded well enough) but in the end I got pretty decent finishes after a lot of work. So I have been a bit leery of trying another supposedly clear water based product. But Aquacoat seems to be highly regarded. And I could tint it if necessary. I have done what I planned to do, sanded the grainy bits and applied another coat of filler, and things look better. I'll sand again today lightly and see how it looks. Recommendations are all over the map with different products, from one to four or more coats, and I'm learning that you do as many coats as it takes. And there is a glimmer of hope that I might actually come to know what I am doing! Bruce W.