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I have only finished a guitar top natural, but I want to try a sunburst. I searched the archives and came up with the Fine Woodworking video on using water based dyes, and I like the ability to blend the various lines of color that this method gives.

I have a couple of questions:

If I put a sealer coat of shellac on the top to aid in routing the binding grooves and to keep the top clean while sanding the sides and back, can I use the dyes on top of the shellac? If not, how can I be sure that the shellac is completely removed before dying?

Are there other ways to do a sunburst that do not require spraying expertise?

Is that spraying expertise hard to come by? It seems like a whole lot more than just practice.

Thanks
Ed Minch

http://www.stewmac.com/tsarchive/ts0054.html

http://www.behlen.co.uk/media/Behlen%20 ... rosols.pdf

-tommy

I have done three using the StewMac cans. All have come out great. I have no "expertise" at all.
I used a picture of the actual Martins I was recreating as a guide.

Here are a couple of pics.

All of these came from using the same three colors. I did not use their ebony, the tobacco worked fine for the dark areas in my case. You just spray each darker or lighter based on what you want in the end.

Two were ambertone style and one was the darker on a D18.

If you screw it up you just sand it off and start again.

Also, if the can spits do not touch it until it dries. If you touch it while wet it will take off the color all the way to the wood. My first reaction is always to try to take it off when I see it happen. Always a mistake.

Thanks.

Really pretty fun.

I am about to start an OM45 with a sunburst. I like the bursts. I saw one and I liked the look of the pearl and the burst together.

RG

Those are very nice! I have a cuban Hog L-00/Nick Lucas in the early stages (working 2 guitars ahead of it), and want to do a sunburst. I was going to try to do a hand rubbed sunburst as found on those early gibsons - i think they look real nice. The issue is the stain goes on the bare wood, so if you don't like it, oh well.

Glenn

no sugar need , they are sweet enough

Are you saying a burst is sweet enough without the bling?

they are frosting on the cake

ruby@magpage.com wrote:

I have a couple of questions:

If I put a sealer coat of shellac on the top to aid in routing the binding grooves and to keep the top clean while sanding the sides and back, can I use the dyes on top of the shellac? If not, how can I be sure that the shellac is completely removed before dying?

Are there other ways to do a sunburst that do not require spraying expertise?

Is that spraying expertise hard to come by? It seems like a whole lot more than just practice.

Thanks
Ed Minch

Ed, if you seal with shellac you will not be able to use the dyes over it. You will need to remove the shellac by scraping and using some alcohol. I would advise removing it anyway for a number of reasons especially if doing any type of shaded lacquer over it. Any scratches or imperfections in the shellac will show through the finish when done as the toner may not lay out at an even thickness and may appear blotchy. Scratches will stand right out as dark lines. Plus there could always be adhesion problems. Rubbing dyes on bare wood can make a nice burst but if it goes bad, and sometimes they do, you are pretty much stuck with it or you do a black top. A sprayed burst can be stripped and redone if it is not to your liking. It can also be evened out for shading and tone quite easily by judicious wetsanding before shooting the clear. There is a learning curve to doing a burst but it's not the toughest finish you can do by any means. Here is a pic of the last one I shot, it was done to look like those Gibson bursts of the 30's.