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I am anxiously waiting for the finish of my first guitar to cure so that I can buff it out. I have no experience here. I was thinking it might be nice to get an attachment for a random orbital sander or even a drill. Does anyone have experience with something like this? I bought a bench buffer at Harbor Freight, find the speed is 3600 rpm, too fast. I will be returning it. Also, what about hand buffing the guitar?

Thanks,

Kent

the car buffers work good for this

Thanks, John. I haven't buffed out a car in 45 years. I believe there are essentially two types; one that looks like an orbital sander (no handle) and one that looks like an angle grinder. Does it matter what kind? Also, just get the buffs that are made for autos?

Kent

I have an arbor and random oribital. I use them both but the random orbital may be the best option to start with . I also use a lambs wool bonnet and the foam bonnet. Learning how to finish is as much about technique as it is on what you use. Take your time and observe what happens. In most cases with Nitro , most people rush it . This stuff does need curing time. Read the labels carefully . More finishes are messed up because of the final stages than application. Prep is so important , after that ,it is the level sanding process that matters.
john

Kent,
If you are going to use a random orbital buffer, just be careful. I buffed out both of my guitars by hand and I m very pleased with the results. Its very easy to over heat the finish and cause it to start to melt. Then you have a whole new set of problems. Doing it by hand takes a little elbow grease, but not too much. You dont need, and cant really apply much pressure when buffing anyway. I would give it a shot by hand first. I have a random orbital buffer and used it on the back of guitar #2 just in case I messed it up. I see no difference between the front and back.
Listen to John Hall. Cure time and prep are key. If you did not wet sand it properly, you wont ever get a good gloss on the finish no matter how much you buff it. Work slowly to get the finish level and then run the grits of your wet paper. I went up to 2500 wet or dry paper, but the buffing compound I used said I only needed to go up to 1200 I believe. The buffing compound claimed it would remove any sanding scratches left by 1200 grit or above sandpaper. I figured, why chance it?
Take your time and good luck. We will be waiting for pictures.

Tony

I thank all for the input. I am inclined to try to buff by hand to start and maybe with a random orbital. I will let you know and for sure post a picture or two.

Kent

Kent, I have found that RO units just won't remove the fine scratching like a circular polisher. I have a nice Flex RO unit I use on my cars for waxing and mild buffing. I have tried it on my guitars, and it gets close, but my small pneumatic circular polisher really surpasses it. The key is to use good polishes and good foam pads, use plenty of polish, and spritz the pads once in awhile with water. Keep the pad moving over the surface and don't tilt the pad to get more 'bite'.
Ken

With all due respect Mr. Casper, your finishes are sort of lacking in the shine department. I dont think you should be commenting here.
Heh heh heh. Just kidding Ken. You know how I feel about the claro walnut guitar you pictured here.


So...listen to Ken and John, but be careful with a buffer. You can burn the finish if you are not careful.

I still love that guitar Ken.

Thanks Tony! I kind of like that claro walnut guitar as well! I am actually building another one!

Ken

Tony_in_NYC wrote: Doing it by hand takes a little elbow grease, but not too much. You dont need, and cant really apply much pressure when buffing anyway. I would give it a shot by hand first.

Tony - can you go into more detail on when you did it by hand? What compounds did you use? What material, etc.?

I am currently in the stage of wet sanding and have the exact same questions as Kent.

Thanks in advance!

Josh