Tung oil finishing - is sanding required?

[ctgblue]

Search function only brough back 7 posts with "tung oil", none of them covered this.

I am building an electric strat style partscaster using a black walnut over mahogany body.
I am planning to finish it with tung oil, thinned with naptha 50/50 and decreasing the thinner as I go.

1. Does this type of finish require any sanding, or do I just take care to wipe excess off and let dry well between coats? Body is already sanded to 220 grit.

2. Would I use the same process for the neck?

3. If I plan to put a decal on the headstock and clearcoat it, should I leave it 'un-oiled'?

Thanks for the help

I am also attaching the neck with inserts instead of just bolts.

[darren]

First off continue sanding up to at least 600.

1. a light scuffing with a scotch brite pad or 0000 wool is all that is needed in between each coat.

2. same process on the neck

3. not sure on that one... not done a decal before


I think you can do your tung oil exactly like the tru-oil process - look for Dave Bagwill's video - a great resource.

[ctgblue]

thanks for the help, I would not have known to sand it more, so I'll start that as soon as it arrives

most finishing with laquers state to not sand past 220 for fear of the finish not adhering properly

so it was a question I had in the back of my mind

[Ken Hundley]

You are not finishing with a lacquer, which builds coats. You are finishing with a penetrating oil, which builds very slowly, and penetrates more than builds. These guys are steering you right....let us know how it works out.

[B. Howard]

320 grit is what I usually use between coats of tung oil. Cutting the first coat so it acts more like a sealer is a good idea, but I would not cut any of the coats after that. I like to get a good build with each coat after that. I feel that proper dry time between coats is very important for any type drying oil based finish. I will not apply more than 1 coat every 24 hrs, no matter how dry it looks or feels.

[ctgblue]

I have been applying the oil every 48 hours.
I have 4 coats on now, the body still feels a little 'oily' after 48 hours, how do I fix this, a little time in the oven at 150°F or what?

I think one more coat will do it, but I cannot have the orange from the mahogany coming off on my shirts or pants.


ALSO:
Has anyone done a stain finish and then oiled over it?
If so, what did you use and how did it work?
I'd like to to a sunburst on this and then oil it.

[B. Howard]

If your oil is still a little tacky after 48 hours your tung oil may be stale. What brand is it and how old is it? I would not put it in the oven, maybe place a fan to move air over it may help.

As for stain under it, I do that fairly often. Mostly we apply a glaze, sand off to just leave highlights and oil over that. Problem with most stains under an oil finish is that the oil re-activates the stain and drags it around, so I don't think you would have enough control to do a nice burst.

[ctgblue]

If your oil is still a little tacky after 48 hours your tung oil may be stale. What brand is it and how old is it? I would not put it in the oven, maybe place a fan to move air over it may help.

I got the tung oil from woodcraft last month.
It's not 'tacky, but when you run your hand over it, and rub your fingers together, you feel a slight 'film' of oil

[ctgblue]

As for stain under it, I do that fairly often. Mostly we apply a glaze, sand off to just leave highlights and oil over that. Problem with most stains under an oil finish is that the oil re-activates the stain and drags it around, so I don't think you would have enough control to do a nice burst.

That was a worry I had, would it 'smear the stain', and it appears so.
So would I be better off just going for a 'transparent look' with the stain, maybe light brown on the front, dark brown on the back?
I was going to try a tobacco sunburst, but a light trans brown would be fine.

[B. Howard]

You can try wiping it off with some denatured alcohol and see if that will remove the oil that you feel. I have been using Waterlox tung oil for a few years now with no problems. It is hard and dry to the touch easily in 24 hrs. Used Carlsle before that and started having some issues with it gelling. We order ours straight from the manufacturer to get the freshest possible, but that is not an option for most folks. As for the stain thing all I can say is run out some test panels to see if you can achieve the effect you desire and what steps are needed to produce it.