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Well, Ken Cierp had some great advice; if I had actually listened to it I would be a happier man at this moment; if I may, I will quote it, to wit: "To begin the process it is necessary to protect the light color woods from inadvertent staining. The main concern is the unseen dark sanding dust from the back and sides. Even after tacking off some residue remains on the surface. When the dust mixes with the coating it can become a very effective, difficult to remove penetrating stain. "

A close 'friend' of mine has this act same problem with top he is working on. It seems that some black sanding dust from the rosette or the black fiber binding has been worked into the wood a bit. Chemicals don't remove it, they just make it gooey. Yuch. Sanding makes it worse. Steel wool seems to help a little but leaves enough to be a real problem. Oil soap and steel wool, same. Paint remover, DNA, blahblah - no joy.

I've done everything I know except use an old can of rustoleum in a - rather fetching - mauve color. That would probably cover the top okay, but....mauve? Is that close to taupe?

Oh yeah - the original finish, which I think I removed completely buy maybe not, was polyurethane.

Whatever - if you got ideas, Please send 'em along.
Thanks
Dave B

I have never been able to remove this type stain with anything other than a "very sharp" scraper blade -- sand paper just grinds the culprit dust deeper into the wood and any chemical, generally will make more staining liquid. I have used hydrogen peroxide to remove stains from boards (not recommended here) the down side is it changes the color of the wood, so spot removal is not an option -- all or nothing.

Now I wish I had a flat flat-top! Scraping would be easier! :-)
Well, a-scraping will I go.
Thanks
Dave B

If you have not done so already ----to prevent gouging round the corners of the blade.

Dave,

I agree with Ken Cierp. Use a sharp scraper. For future builds, you may want to think about sealing the top before you inlay the rosette and work on bindings. I leave the top sealed as I pore fill and final sand the sides and back. Not until I am completely happy with the sides and back will I sand the top and expose bare wood.

Ken

Duly noted and appreciated. I am listening !! :-)
Dave B

Ken C wrote:For future builds, you may want to think about sealing the top before you inlay the rosette and work on bindings. I leave the top sealed as I pore fill and final sand the sides and back. Not until I am completely happy with the sides and back will I sand the top and expose bare wood.

That is good advice Ken........I think I'll take that suggestion. I shellaced around the perimeter before I started cutting the binding channels but I didn't do the entire top.

Ken C - thanks for the response. That tip is what I call 'macro-building' as opposed to the micro- of actually measuring (twice :-)), cutting, gluing etc.
Those macro tips are invaluable, they make the micro steps much easier, and if any of you experienced guys/gals(?) can pass along ANY tips like this - things to do at the outset that save headaches and suicidal thoughts later in the process - that wouild be a HUGE help!!
Thanks
Dave B

I do the same....use some sanding sealer on the top, or thinned lacquer if you are concerned with tinting. I too was going to suggest using the razor to scrape it out. Works great.