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So as the final cure cycles of my first are about to end I have some questions. After I complete the wet sanding, going through all the grits ending with 12 zillion grit micro mesh what are some of the polishing/buffing/swirl remover products that ya'll use and where do you purchase them from. I'm also interested in methods of application, I don't have one them there fancy smancy polishing macines so I'm wondering about hand polishing (elbow grease) or using one of those hand held buffing thingies that you get at that auto parts store for waxing/buffing cars. Thanks!

David L

On my last nitro finish I used medium buffing compound from stewmac. I applied it by hand with a soft flannel and wiped/ buffed it out with a fresh flannel piece and it worked well. My final sanding wasn't as high as the final micro mesh grit however. Maybe you can go straight to a fine polish after that. Good luck.

I have a 3M medium cut automotive polish I use to remove all scratch and swirl marks, and I have used a 5" orbital buffer for cars. Works well, but I like buffers. I have a small air-powered die grinder with a couple of 6" soft flannel wheels I use to buff. Works very well.

right now, however, I have a right angle 3" air polisher I use with some very soft pads....start with the cut polish, then use MeGuiars #10 and 17 polishes. I also have some Fender Guitar polish I use sometimes....all seem to work well. The key is to keep whatever tool you are using moving evenly, without any pressure on it, and be very careful at the edges and at the sound hole.

The 5/6" auto orbital buffer is inexpensive, and will work, but is tougher on the sides, and if it starts spinning too fast, will go right through the finish on the edges, so be careful.

Progressive 600g - 2000g wet or dry with water and a drop of soap. Not a speck of Micro Mesh in our shop.

Wizards final cut liquid polishing compound

Wizards Shine Master

Check out DaveH's work in "show it off" I believe he follows the same routine.

Perhaps the results could not used for polishing the mirror on the "Hubble" telescope but the appearance certainly stands up to anything you'll see at a music store.

I am a micro mesh fan . this stuff lasts a long time . Again finish may be the last 5% but as John Osdorff says it may be the last 5% but it is 95% of the guitar. Finishing is such a process that once you find the techniques that work for you , stay with it.
If you get a great result by wearing your shoes on the wrong feet , do it . This is what will give the instrument that eye appeal that is monumentally important .

I was able to find some stuff over here in Japan that was a finish restorer product to remove oxidation on a car finish. I wish I could tell you exactly what it is because it worked amazing! I could not find any higher grit wet/dry paper here than 1500. after that I used a three part polish that starts at 3000 then 7500 then 9800. I am assuming that is the grit of the compound. It was applied with a small foam applicator that I would describe as the consistency of one of my wife's face paint (read as make-up) applicators. each level brought out a higher shine until it was a mirror-like finish.