Finishing schedule question

[MKlee]

Okay, here is what I've done so far towards finishing my first guitar body:

2 coats Behlen's vinyl sealer
4 coats Pore-o-pac pore filler
2 more coats vinyl sealer
6 coats Behlen's lacquer ... all from rattle cans

After 3 weeks of drying time I started level sanding yesterday: very lightly with 320, then wet sanding with 600 and 800.

In an attempt to level sand all of the pores I broke through the lacquer on a couple of spots AND the pores are still not completely level. What are the recommendations going forward?

My thought was to do another 6 - 8 coats and start the process over. Do I need to vinyl seal the spots ... the whole body again? Also, should I continue with the higher grit sandpapers before spraying again? I'm extremely happy with the finish so far ... I just need to get the remaining pores filled.

[kencierp]

On porus wood you usually need 12 to 16 "WET" top coats from rattle cans -- this is about 6 full cans -- how many cans have you used so far? Dull misty dry coats don't get it done.

[MKlee]

I think I used about 5 cans ... but this included the neck. I used John's method of putting a business card in the sound hole and measuring the application. It came out right at his prediction of about .002".

What do you think I should do from here ... do I need to re-seal prior to more coats?

[kencierp]

.002" finish on the soundboard may be OK but as you found out in order to level and polish lacquer on the back and sides much more material is need. I personally believe the number one cause of finishing whoas for the new comer is not applying enough top coating finish to properly work ---- what I am saying is forget about all those "unfounded warnings" to keep the finish extra super thin. Just don't glop it on decopage and you'll be fine --- more top coat is my recommendation. $.02

[MKlee]

Do the spots where I sanded through require more sealer? Does the wood need to be sealed prior to more lacquer? My plan was to do another 8 or so coats tonight and then retry - I just wasn't sure whether to use the sealer first.

[MKlee]

Also, if I'm still going to apply more coats, should I work though all of the grits of sandpaper up to 2000? I've currently sanded up through 800.

[kencierp]

You do not need more sealer, scuff the surface with 320G

Once you have all the coats/layers applied - the leveling starts all over. Just to be clear, the idea is to get the surface perfectly flat usually starting with 320G --- if done properly there is a uniform dull finish. If you see shiny spots more leveling is required and somtimes more coating. The key is getting to that consistant dull sheen. Then the polishing with the finer grits can begin.

[tippie53]

the only thing I can add to Ken's advice is to use a sanding block. Sanding with your hand will often go through finish like Grant through Richmond. You need something flat . I have some soft rubber blocks that I use for finish work. Finish is often harder than building.

[kencierp]

Ditto John!!

I use the thick pink styrofoam insulation or wood blocks covered with cork. Several different sizes. Take care near the edges -- you can cut through in an instant.

[MKlee]

Does anybody have any suggestions/techniques for sanding the neck? With all of the irregular shaped surfaces it seems as though it will be extremely difficult to not sand through the finish ... any special techniques people use?