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I have everything done except my peghead inlay(just waiting on a bit i ordered). I will be useing the Behlen rattle can kit i bought off Grizzly with the addition of pore o pac for filling. I know everybody does this different so i had a few questions. the kit came with a schedule

http://www.behlen.co.uk/media/Behlen%20 ... rosols.pdf

Since this is my first go at this i will practice on some scrap, but ive read so many different posts about when to fill the pores. Should i stick with whats laid out by the manufacturer, or would you suggest and tweaks??

Oh and heres an updated pic i took after did the initial neck angle.

I believe you know the answer --- nobody at any forum or anywhere has more insight then the manufacturer of the finishing products used in their system. Most finishing failures are do to the applier using someone's Internet garage or basement homebrew method (sure it might work once?). Follow the instructions at the product website and on the cans --- you will not be sorry.

Also -- yes forums are fun and the common bonds, shared experiences are enjoyable --- but for true technical advice the product supplier should be the source. In all the years I've been in the manufacturing arena I have always successfully resolved issues by contacting the product tech support department --- using this/these resources will go a long way in getting it right -- right from the start.

I pretty much figured that i should follow the instructions and the dvd that came with it was pretty easy to follow. I have one more question, just curious... I will be waiting for the proper temps/humidity to start, but what happens to the finish if its done below the recommended temp i believe it was 65-75F

If the application conditions do not fall into the design parameters of the product -- the product is likely to fail or at least the results will be of lesser quality. Technically the plasticiziers are inhibited and the solvents do not gas off properly (as designed). If care is taken heaters can be used. But still, the bottom line is if you don't follow the instructions no matter what someone might tell you -- it will be a crap shoot as to the results. As for humidity Behlens has a product to reduce/remove blushing if too much moisture is in the air during application.

I used the same stuff at one point. It will do the trick. I don't remember the finish schedule they recommended . I think I did use the sealer fill seal on the back and sides and had a good result . Still I think follow the advice from the manufacturer and you will be on the right track. Get the first one under your belt.
One more thing , PREP is everything , don't cut corners as they will show in the end. Post Pix , we love to see others work

Your git looks nice! I'm not familiar with that product, so can't opine. But this is where the whole project comes together. I agree with what both Ken and John have said. I'd add that many think that once the glue bottle and clamps are put away, most of the work is done. Take whatever time is needed to do the job right. Use a sanding block to remove all the coarse sanding scratches, fill the pores well, and don't rush the curing times. One thing I always do prior to pore filling is moisten a cloth with mineral spirits, wipe the guitar, and inspect your surfaces closely under good lighting. If you see any scratches, use your sanding block and various grits to remove them.

Good luck!

Ken

Just wanted to update everybody. I bought everything and i got the pore o pac in a medium brown. Opened the box and the can is dented with a hole in it and its leaked all over. I tossed it and called up the company, no biggie theyll send a replacement. I get the new box, right product wrong collor, call them again they say sorry keep what we sent and we'll send another. get the next box, same wrong product. call them again turns out their stock may be mislabeled. So now i have 2 cans of pore o pac natural finish and i honestly have no clue what to do with. any ideas? :-)

My tip for the day:

Be careful sanding near the edge of your guitar. It's very easy to round the edge or bevel into the edge. So minimize your sanding near the edge and never place pressure on the sanding block past the edge.

I tried to improve my very nice looking finish on the top of my guitar by drop filling a few tiny spots on the purfling and the rosette. I sanded through the finish right near the waist while trying to level the drop fill. It definitely shows as the amber shellac underneath is gone in a little strip so is lighter colored.

Can it be tinted?

Brivis wrote:Just wanted to update everybody. I bought everything and i got the pore o pac in a medium brown. Opened the box and the can is dented with a hole in it and its leaked all over. I tossed it and called up the company, no biggie theyll send a replacement. I get the new box, right product wrong collor, call them again they say sorry keep what we sent and we'll send another. get the next box, same wrong product. call them again turns out their stock may be mislabeled. So now i have 2 cans of pore o pac natural finish and i honestly have no clue what to do with. any ideas? :-)