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Ok I'm sure I m making this harder than it has to be but how do you mix opaque lacquer. I use stewmac lacquer or mohawk instrument lacquer. It seems everyone suggest Colortone pigment. As far as I can tell no longer available in the US. Stewmac is sold out. Can't fined any other source. Tried colortone tint just turned translucent black. Trying to mix a headstock black and a cherry red. I actually have a mohawk account but not really even sure what to order. Not to mention it only comes in quarts and the price is outrageous.
AHA
Rad

Okay I've used powdered black pigment with nitro lacquer and had great results. Restored a WW11 Samuri sword scabbard and ended up with a fabulous finish.

I believe the powder came from LMI. I still have some and also dye epoxy with it all the time.

I'm sure you could find similar from another supplier

I suggest this out of ignorance: Auto paint vendors make a living coloring various lacquers and enamels. Maybe visit one of these suppliers and ask? Perhaps nitro lacquer isn't the best current coating for the job at hand. It's not like you're finishing the entire instrument.

jeff jewitt makes it look him up

Jeff Jewitt <sales@homesteadfinishingproducts.com>

Jeff Jewitt <sales@homesteadfinishingproducts.com>
I mix it into my sprayer

Thanks for all the replies I will contact Jeff. Kevin I thought of that . I ordered a sample pack of Keda aniline dye powder. It is designed for stain, not a whole lot of colors but there is a black. Not sure if anyone has used that in lacquer. I thought about the paint and body suppliers and have seen that suggestion before. Just feel stupid asking someone to mix 4 ounces to spray a headstock and don't need a quart of black. The red maybe. I will check if I can't find a suitable formula.
Thanks for all the suggestions.

Keda dyes are great, but not opaque. Additionally, their black has a “blueness” to it. I have used that black powder Kevin spoke of, its a good product. I mixed it with epoxy for filler around Gibson headstock inlays. For small stuff I like Krylon black lacquer spray cans. It’s acrylic lacquer, not nitro, but sands and buffs out great, after a few weeks drying time. Rust-Oleum lacquer drys slower and is kinda soft, I avoid it after some bad experiences. If you like the control of your spraying setup, you can empty the spray can into a large jar, then spray that with your gun or airbrush. I frequently do that so I can do color adjustments.

Thanks for the advice. I spoke with Jeff. He confirmed Colortone Pigment has been discontinued. He uses Mohawk pigment now. It only comes in quarts and is quite expensive. I never thought of emptying a whole spray can into a jar. I have done it for drop fills. Thats a good idea. That opens up endless color possibilities. Can I spray mohawk instrument nitrocellulose or Colortone lacquer over acrylic lacquer? I have heard incompatibility issues mixing products.

Some vintage Fender guitars from the 50s and 60s actually have nitro clear over acrylic lacquer. Pretty uncommon, but there are examples. I frequently shoot nitro clear over acrylic, but I let the acrylic dry a couple of weeks before clearing with nitro. Again, only issues I have had are with Rust-Oleum products. Krylon lacquer works fine. Krylon also has clear acrylic lacquer, so you could use that as your topcoat. Overall, I am real conservative with how fast I build the finish. Very thin coats with a least a hour dying time in between are best. Only about 3 of these coats a day.