Brite Tone Waterbase Finish
-
- Posts: 192
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 4:19 pm
- Location: Forest Ranch, CA
Re: Brite Tone Waterbase Finish
Bob, what's your schedule for CA fill? And brand?
I've got a can of Goodfilla waterbased to try next time. Had no luck with Aquacoat ever. Last guitar was White Oak and after 15 coats the pores are still there.
I've got a can of Goodfilla waterbased to try next time. Had no luck with Aquacoat ever. Last guitar was White Oak and after 15 coats the pores are still there.
Last edited by carld05 on Thu Aug 29, 2024 8:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Posts: 437
- Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2015 2:45 pm
- Contact:
Re: Brite Tone Waterbase Finish
Yep, vinyl sealer does not work. Definite adhesion issues!
-
- Posts: 7084
- Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 7:09 pm
- Location: Hegins, Pa
- Contact:
Re: Brite Tone Waterbase Finish
you have to seal before aqua coat and after
with Oak I don't think the may a filler that will work well it has such heavy pore , here you may find the classical
method of egg white and dust
with Oak I don't think the may a filler that will work well it has such heavy pore , here you may find the classical
method of egg white and dust
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
-
- Posts: 437
- Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2015 2:45 pm
- Contact:
Re: Brite Tone Waterbase Finish
You can find a very detailed schedule of the CA fill at the bottom of this page. Chuck taught me most of what I know about CA fill. http://www.moorebettahukes.com/MYWORK.html
-
- Posts: 728
- Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 11:39 pm
- Location: Ladysmith, BC
Re: Brite Tone Waterbase Finish
I hoped I could add something to what we know about Brite-Tone, but I'm dealing with a weird situation. After using it successfully (eventually) on two early builds, with an inexpensive spray gun, I am trying it again. The difference is that I am putting finish on an old guitar with a new top. Because I've sanded the sides and back to even the transition to new bindings, I've gone through the original finish along the edges. So I assumed those bare spots needed sealer and pore filling (and stain, too, to even out the colour). I had some Brite-Tone vinyl sealer left over so started using it. It is extremely runny and I had extensive runs and drips with the first coat. (Spray gun settings same as I have used with nitro.) So I am learning what I should have learned earlier, how to reduce fluid flow, adjust spray pattern, and try different air settings. After pore filling and sanding everything with 320 I tried to get the second two coats of sealer on. Better but still messy. It almost looks like the sealer is being blown around on the previously finished surface (much better, but still a few runs, on the new cedar top).I wonder if the sealer is not compatible with the original finish? I may sand the sealer coats pretty much off and try going straight to Brite-Tone. Tad Brown says not to use BT vinyl sealer, but seal with the finish coat. Nitro is looking pretty good right now . . . Bruce W.
-
- Posts: 437
- Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2015 2:45 pm
- Contact:
Re: Brite Tone Waterbase Finish
It is not clear what finish you are trying to blend together with the Brite Tone. If it is a commercial finish, it is most likely a polyurethane, and less likely nitro. No waterborne finish is going to blend with either of those.I have been working with this Brite Tone daily for a month or so, and still not getting a finish I can use on an instrument. I'm almost there, but still having issues with bubbles in the finish. So many variables! Whatever you learned spraying nitro, does not apply very much to waterborne. Most of my builder friends don't see that it is worthwhile to get involved with waterborne, but I can tell you that I'm really liking the lack of solvent fumes and the water cleanup of the equipment. At first it was annoying, but it is fast and simple now. That said, I don't really know if I will ever get a finish that I can use. I have 5 gallons of nitro as a backup! Good luck.-Bob
-
- Posts: 728
- Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 11:39 pm
- Location: Ladysmith, BC
Re: Brite Tone Waterbase Finish
I hoped I could add something useful to this discussion but I have not made great progress, as you will see. About a month ago, after getting about half the coats on this old guitar, the finish looked as it does in the photo. Lots of orange peel and drips and runs. I decided to try to level it before continuing, and that went okay (I was sanding the sides when the photo was taken). I sprayed more coats and it ended up looking still like the photo. So I have left it now for the recommended month or more to harden before I try again to level and buff it.
Along the way, I was trying to figure out what was wrong. I had used Brite-tone on my first two guitars, with a very cheap spray system, and it was not nearly so troublesome as this (and I was an absolute beginner). I thought maybe I was putting too much on, so, following the Fuji instruction booklet, I turned the fluid flow as low as I could. (Read the book, right?) Well, I finally looked online to see if I was reading something wrong, and there found a newer version of the same manual, and it says - you guessed it - you should turn the knob in the OPPOSITE direction to reduce the flow. A thinking person might have just tried that, but I was a little bamboozled, had not had these issues with lacquer, and in the end I had used less than a US quart (litre) of finish for one guitar, which did not seem excessive. By this time I had finished anyway, and had lost my spraying opportunities outdoors, so I will have to wait until next year to experiment more. I may set up indoors to experiment just with water to get a better feel for it. Learning as you go is sometimes not the best way to go! Bruce W.
Along the way, I was trying to figure out what was wrong. I had used Brite-tone on my first two guitars, with a very cheap spray system, and it was not nearly so troublesome as this (and I was an absolute beginner). I thought maybe I was putting too much on, so, following the Fuji instruction booklet, I turned the fluid flow as low as I could. (Read the book, right?) Well, I finally looked online to see if I was reading something wrong, and there found a newer version of the same manual, and it says - you guessed it - you should turn the knob in the OPPOSITE direction to reduce the flow. A thinking person might have just tried that, but I was a little bamboozled, had not had these issues with lacquer, and in the end I had used less than a US quart (litre) of finish for one guitar, which did not seem excessive. By this time I had finished anyway, and had lost my spraying opportunities outdoors, so I will have to wait until next year to experiment more. I may set up indoors to experiment just with water to get a better feel for it. Learning as you go is sometimes not the best way to go! Bruce W.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.