Repairing a cracked tail block

Even if it ain't broke you can still fix it.
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MaineGeezer
Posts: 1715
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:14 pm

Repairing a cracked tail block

Post by MaineGeezer »

Somebody just asked me to repair a Gibson LG-2 with a cracked tail block. Any suggestions on how to proceed? I've got some ideas, but I'd like to get your thoughts.
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tippie53
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Re: Repairing a cracked tail block

Post by tippie53 »

I did this with both Tite bond and CA
Tite bond I did work a little water in the crack then worked in the glue with this on and the side cracks
I think CA or Epoxy may be the better option
I do use clamps with all the glues
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
jread
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Re: Repairing a cracked tail block

Post by jread »

Ooh good project. I recently inherited a 58 lg-0. It’s all original with no prior repairs but needs just about everything. Braces falling off, a few cracks, reset, bridge coming up etc. please let us know how yours comes out. Mine is rehydrating and I’ll start the restoration this fall sometime
phavriluk
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Re: Repairing a cracked tail block

Post by phavriluk »

My reflexive response: clamp the tailblock and rim back together, after the split is as closed as it's going to get, stand the guitar up, use a pipette to introduce thin CA from a pipette across the crack, from the inside, spritz with accelerator inside. Some dry runs might be a good idea, everything but no CA in the pipette. Then put some support strips grain vertically oriented across the tailblock. No need to use a lot of CA, it runs everywhere all by itself.
peter havriluk
MaineGeezer
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Re: Repairing a cracked tail block

Post by MaineGeezer »

Well, it's glued, I hope.
I have a hypodermic body (no needle). I drove the end pin in so it was tight and opened the crack slightly, then I filled the hypo body with TItebond, pressed the end against the crack, and forced glue into the crack. It would have worked better If I'd had some kind of rubber seal in between, but it worked well enough. Then I pulled the end pin, put serious clamps on the body to close the crack, and let it dry.
Today I cut a piece of 1/8'"mahogany just slightly smaller than the tail block such that the grain ran vertically, drilled a small hole in the center, and threaded a guitar string through it and the tail pin hole from the inside. I slathered the surface with Titebond and used the guitar string to pull it snugly against the tail block. When that dried, I took off the body clamps and nothing moved, so I think it' s okay.
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Don't believe everything you know.
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
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