botched "kit" repair

[phavriluk]

I think this was a hot mess before it got passed along. Better uses for the time.

[warren47]

I guess it is my fault for using the fireplace gag. Peter, I have enjoyed to comments.
I am retired, I can spend the money but am after the challenge. I am almost done with my Ramirez 1A inspired project and was looking at the challenge of cleaning up this guitar. I could really use help in identifying the woods, that is why the close up pictures.
Without the "X" bracing (I'm assuming this is inspired inspired by hybrid cross bracing) I'm not sure the top will survive at the thickness I'm thinking. When I first saw the posting (e-bay) I wrote it off because of the Douglas fir top. I researched it for a while and saw many questions about its suitability as a top. I then saw comments about the strength, density and flexibility as opposed to spruce. Looks like it might just work. This will not be sold nor is it intended to be a show piece. I can get student grade back pieces in cypress or cherry (bit of help here) and put it together. If I go the hhg route I can take it apart if it is a disaster. If it sounds "OK" I still have the option of taking off the top and doing surgery.
comments encouraged.

wb

[MaineGeezer]

I can believe the back and sides are cherry.

[Stray Feathers]

I agree the sides could be cherry. And I have a luthier friend who has made guitars with Douglas-fir tops and he says it's wonderful, and it is very stiff so the top can be thinner. Bruce W.

[warren47]

So, here is the plan: I have a piece of cherry on order. I will make a back, fit it and string her up. I do not have great hopes but... Assuming it is not acceptable, off comes the top. I will remove the current bracing, thin it down and fit fan bracing. Pattern still not determined. Put it back together and see what I've got. I'm not a very good guitar player but I will butcher something and record it. That will answer the question about Douglas fir as a tonewood.

[MaineGeezer]

You're going to put nylon strings on it? If so, the unusual top bracing may make more sense. Not that I would know, but if you Google "Classical guitar top n=bracing" and select Images, a couple of the patterns bear some resemblance to what you have.

[warren47]

Yes, it will be nylon strung. That search provides quite a number of images. I have time to study.

[Diane Kauffmds]

I would put the body in a mold and remove the top. .130" is awfully thick for a steel string, let alone classical. It's up to you on the bracing, but I'm not impressed.. There are myriad classical bracing patterns.

The brace glue job is horrible. You need a bridge patch, which is usually a thin piece of spruce. The Dougllas fir is a good tonewood. Personally, I prefer ingelman spruce for classical instruments since they're usually played fingerstyle. German and Lutz are 2 more that are great for classicals.

Also, I'd add a tail block, which adds stability and stiffness. If this were mine, I'd take that bracing off and replace it. Listen to different classical bracing patterns on YouTube. I know it's not necessarily the best sound, but you'll get a good idea on how differing patterns affect the sound.

[warren47]

Thank you Diane and MaineGeezer. Using MaineGeezer's search suggestion and Diane's listen to youtube suggestion I have been able to listen to a comparison of a Bouchet guitar and a Fieta guitar side by side. The comparison let me get two things established. 1. I have very expensive (and unaffordable) taste. 2. The Bouchet and Fleta comparison set a pretty high bar. I have Courtnall's book so I was able to read his opinion of the two. Fieta's guitar was a cedar top so I cannot hope for that. The Bouchet is spruce and I have bracing information for it. Bouchet it is. Ramirez is a contender but I am already working on an A1 inspired guitar so I am eliminating it.

[Diane Kauffmds]

Cedar Tonewood isn't expensive. You could easily make a new top for that guitar. If you want to use cedar, here's a link. The problem with cedar is that it dents very easily. Dents can be removed with heat and moisture. But, a constantly clean bench is a must to prevent dents.

BTW, tonewoood grading is entirely subjective and based wholly on appearance, not sound. The best sounding guitars that I've made are from cheaper tops, "grade" A or less. You can easily find spruce for less than $50 for a set.

Just stay away from runout.

https://exoticwoodzone.com/search?q=red ... s=e&_v=1.0