This is my newest guitar. The price was reasonable for an extremely sweet sounding guitar, In the close up you will see why the price was so reasonable. The guitar was the property of a "western" entertainer. He used a pick. After extensive surface damage a pick guard was added. Part of the visible damage is my fault. I removed the pick guard with an 0.010 steel wire and a little heat. The finish came up with the adhesive.
There is an area that is about 0.020 to 0.025 deep. This is the original pick damage. Can that be filled? The top, at the sound hole is 0.120 to 0.140 thick. This leads me to think I could level out the bottom of the damage with a chisel, taper the ends and side and fit an insert. Any opinions?
I realize I could just seal it with shellac as it will not be sold.
Hiroshi Tamurra P40
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warren47
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Hiroshi Tamurra P40
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Skarsaune
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Re: Hiroshi Tamurra P40
I did a similar fix on a Yamaki F-150 recently. Shellac / tint to match the finish then filled/levelled with Gluboost. I
Are you reinstalling a pickguard, or leaving it bare?
.020" is a pretty wispy insert / patch.
Are you reinstalling a pickguard, or leaving it bare?
.020" is a pretty wispy insert / patch.
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warren47
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Re: Hiroshi Tamurra P40
I will for go the pick guard, I am (or rather try to be) a classical player
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warren47
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Re: Hiroshi Tamurra P40
opps, double post
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jread
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warren47
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Re: Hiroshi Tamurra P40
Since my last post I have been searching the Inner Web for insight. I have come to the realization that I am entering the world of restoration. I found a thread from folks associated with Oberlin Violin School in Petaluma, CA. In response to a question similar to mine, the masters are suggesting harvesting summer growth (the soft stuff), softening it, and gluing it into the damaged areas. They do this one "grain line" at a time.
I have a piece of scrap that is perfectly quarter sawn. It it is very close in color to my top. The summer growth is a bit wide but that might be ok. I'll wait till winter sets in and attack that scrap.
I have a way of measuring the width of each "grain line" that needs to be built up. If I cut the vein from my scrap I can shave the soft wood to the necessary width. Having done that I can cut it from my scrap stock and fit it into place. If I can do all 27 pieces with reasonable workmanship I will have solved my problem.
For tear outs the afore mentioned folks use a 1mm gouge to scoop out a sliver from their donor, gently scoop out the area to be repaired (thus matching the shape) and glue it in.
Regardless of the outcome, I'll post after the first few attempts.
I have a piece of scrap that is perfectly quarter sawn. It it is very close in color to my top. The summer growth is a bit wide but that might be ok. I'll wait till winter sets in and attack that scrap.
I have a way of measuring the width of each "grain line" that needs to be built up. If I cut the vein from my scrap I can shave the soft wood to the necessary width. Having done that I can cut it from my scrap stock and fit it into place. If I can do all 27 pieces with reasonable workmanship I will have solved my problem.
For tear outs the afore mentioned folks use a 1mm gouge to scoop out a sliver from their donor, gently scoop out the area to be repaired (thus matching the shape) and glue it in.
Regardless of the outcome, I'll post after the first few attempts.