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Very nice.

How do you set up to inlay pearl on the bridge. Is there a trick to doing the inlay?

Looking good John!

I'll also add y thanks for posting these type threads......very informative and fun to watch.

I used to have a block that had a rail that I could locate the inlay base on. After a few hundred I just do them but this would make a good video. Next time Glenn pops in I will do one so you can see that process.

Excellent.

Thanks for all you for us wanna be's out here!

Wow, what a beautiful renovation!

well it finally got finished the top was replaced and the damage repaired . The top actually did go through the back. The kerfing breakage was clean and that allowed a good repair
here is the finished product . I did make a new pickguard but I could use the old bridge. Sounds stellar. We also colored the top to look like the old one

John
Earlier in the thread you said you had to reset the top geometry. Can you describe what measurements you might take and how you go from there?

Ed MInch

As a guitar ages and stresses take hold the neck block will rotate causing the action to change. So in this case, with the top off I could set the neck block back to its original position.

I cover it in this video but to make it sweet , once the rim is ready for the top you want to see about a 1/4 in to 3/8 rise to the tail block.

I do this using the flat of the radius dish and pushing down on the neck block. You can do this also by placing the rim top down on a table and push the neck block down . you can see the rise on the tail block off the table.

also this link may help
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6174&hilit=getting+the+neck

hope this helps , if not let me know

It does, John. One more thing - I have to replace the back on a guitar, and if I distort the body just a bit I can avoid a reset - how would I do this to make sure action is right?

This is what I am thinking:

1 )With a straight edge, distort the body so the flat fretboard with new frets so the straight edge just hits the top of the new bridge.

2) devise a mold that will hod the body in that shape - maybe just a few wedges in a different mold.

3) Using spool clamps, clamp the new back in place.

4) Cross fingers.

Ed

that should get you close.
In the old days we called this slipping the back.. You can do this with 2 dowels that go from the neck block to tail block . You can also use a threaded rod through the strap pin hole . Instead of a mold you can use a strap clamp. Once you have the stop point you should be golden.
All you are doing is to flex the neck to establish neck geometry.