DIane,
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Guild D40 Restore
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- Posts: 375
- Joined: Wed Jul 29, 2015 9:04 pm
- Location: San Jose, CA, USA
Re: Guild D40 Restore
- Randall Newcomb
10 fingers in, 10 fingers out - another good day in the shop
10 fingers in, 10 fingers out - another good day in the shop
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- Posts: 3284
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
Re: Guild D40 Restore
Thanks Randy.
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- Posts: 3284
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
Re: Guild D40 Restore
I've cut the dovetail using the CNC. After 3 false starts, I managed to produce a credible 3D rendering of the dovetail and surrounding wood that's missing. In fact, I was so excited that I forgot to run the "smooth" 3D program, not that it matters.
I have to use my chisel to make the recess for the dovetail.
I have to use my chisel to make the recess for the dovetail.
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- Posts: 3284
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
Re: Guild D40 Restore
The wood graft is in. It may not look like it, but the fit is precise and tight. It's just that everything was so uneven, it took quite a while to get it in.
You'll notice that there's a gap on the right. I left it by design. That side is open, because the jacka** who cut the neck out went beyond the neck block. Today I'm gluing a separate piece of mahogany on the inside to the neck block and side. I'll glue to the neck block first, let it cure, then I can glue the side to the wood and clamp it good.
You'll notice that there's a gap on the right. I left it by design. That side is open, because the jacka** who cut the neck out went beyond the neck block. Today I'm gluing a separate piece of mahogany on the inside to the neck block and side. I'll glue to the neck block first, let it cure, then I can glue the side to the wood and clamp it good.
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- Posts: 3284
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
Re: Guild D40 Restore
Since the dovetail/block is epoxied into place, I had to do something about the missing wood under the top/side.
The genius who created this trainwreck cut the neck off so far to the right, that they cut beyond the neck block. The right side has cracked, because it's not glued to the block anymore.
First, I had to clamp the side down, so it was in the proper position assuming it was still glued to the neck block. I used a rosewood piece as a flat caul across the top of the guitar, and gently clamped the top of the guitar, until it was level on both sides, in preparation for the wood that will stabilize the side. This also closes the crack.
I cut a 1" x 3/4" piece of Mahogany that fit between the kerfing.at the top, and sits along the neck block. Using HHG, because of its self-clamping properties, I glued the piece to the side of the neck block and the side/top. It's made good contact all along the side of the block, and across the side at the top of the shoulder.
I'm going to put a thin piece of mahogany across the end of the crack to arrest any propensity for it to spread. It'll look like a strut. I'll do it tomorrow once the guitar is unclaimed so I can sew where it needs to go.
The genius who created this trainwreck cut the neck off so far to the right, that they cut beyond the neck block. The right side has cracked, because it's not glued to the block anymore.
First, I had to clamp the side down, so it was in the proper position assuming it was still glued to the neck block. I used a rosewood piece as a flat caul across the top of the guitar, and gently clamped the top of the guitar, until it was level on both sides, in preparation for the wood that will stabilize the side. This also closes the crack.
I cut a 1" x 3/4" piece of Mahogany that fit between the kerfing.at the top, and sits along the neck block. Using HHG, because of its self-clamping properties, I glued the piece to the side of the neck block and the side/top. It's made good contact all along the side of the block, and across the side at the top of the shoulder.
I'm going to put a thin piece of mahogany across the end of the crack to arrest any propensity for it to spread. It'll look like a strut. I'll do it tomorrow once the guitar is unclaimed so I can sew where it needs to go.
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