How to make a fretboard

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Diane Kauffmds
Posts: 3246
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm

How to make a fretboard

Post by Diane Kauffmds »

I thought that our new folks might benefit from some comments and some photos on making a fretboard.

This is a special fretboard. I'm making an OM with a celtic theme. I've designed a special inlay, so I'll be making a second blog with photos on inlaying.

This Gabon ebony fretboard is already slotted. I slotted it on my tablesaw, using a fretboard slotting jig, template, and blade. I slot several boards at one time.

There are many ways to slot a board, if you have a blank. I converted a $10 plastic mitre saw jig into a decent guide and I used a $10 Irwin dovetail saw to make the slots for my first few guitars.

I use double sided tape (Duck brand) to tape the slotted blank to a flat board, because it's easier to work with if elevated off of the bench a bit. I also use the double sided tape to secure the wood with attached board to my bench. You can clamp the board, but sometimes the clamp gets in the way.

First, I radius the board. Since I slot the board on the tablesaw, I have to slot it face down. I have to radius it after slotting, not before. If you have a hand saw, you can radius the board before slotting. I use a radius beam with 80g psa sandpaper on it. (You can radius a board with a flat beam too; just angle the beam as you sand). It is easier and more accurate to use something long. You can even use the side of a decent level to sand a radius and do leveling.

I chalk the board, then start sanding with the radius beam or flat beam. I sand until all of the chalk is gone. I chalk the board again, and sand again, to ensure that the radius is accurate. Look at each end of the board. The radius should be even.
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Diane Kauffmann
Country Roads Guitars
countryroadsguitars@gmail.com
Diane Kauffmds
Posts: 3246
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm

Re: How to make a fretboard

Post by Diane Kauffmds »

After radiusing, I level it for the first time. I level my boards at least 3 times. Your fretboard will be easier to fret and the frets easier to level, when you start with a level board.

Like mathematics, if you skip a step in the beginning, your end product won't be accurate. When you make a fretboard, don't skip steps. This contributes directly to playability.

I chalk the board again and I use a leveling beam to level. Leveling beams are guaranteed to be precisely level to within 0.001". You can find good inexpensive leveling beams on Ebay, that have been rejected, because of cosmetic flaws. Mine is 19" long. Using a long beam, vs a short block, will result in a much more accurate fretboard.

When I level, I sand in one direction only. if you sand back and forth, you'll have a dip in the board. So, level from one direction. Maintain your radius while you sand. Double check by looking at the ends of your fretboard.

When all of the chalk is gone. Chalk again and repeat. Remember, sand in one direction only. The chalk should sand right off. When it does. The fretboard will be properly radiused and level.

I level one more time, after installing it.
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Diane Kauffmann
Country Roads Guitars
countryroadsguitars@gmail.com
Diane Kauffmds
Posts: 3246
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm

Re: How to make a fretboard

Post by Diane Kauffmds »

The board is slotted, radiused, and level. I mark slots 12 and 14 with a white pencil. At this point, I saw off the excess above the top end of the board, to fret 0 (where the nut hits the board).

I marl center at the top and on slot 12 and draw a line down the board with a pencil. Using my little Zona square, I make sure that the centerline is perpendicular to each slot.
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Diane Kauffmann
Country Roads Guitars
countryroadsguitars@gmail.com
Diane Kauffmds
Posts: 3246
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm

Re: How to make a fretboard

Post by Diane Kauffmds »

Using the centerline, I mark 1 3/4" width at the nut end, and 2 1/8" on slot 12. I draw lines connecting the marks. These are the sides of the fretboard. In this case, i had already generally shaped the board. The lines are close to the edge.

Since the lines are close to the edge, I simply sand the sides using the leveling bar. The fretboard is now the proper shape, except for length. I'll cut the board when I'm ready to install it.

In this case, I had to deepen the slots. I used a Japanese saw to deepen the slots, and clean them out.
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Diane Kauffmann
Country Roads Guitars
countryroadsguitars@gmail.com
Diane Kauffmds
Posts: 3246
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm

Re: How to make a fretboard

Post by Diane Kauffmds »

My shop assistant fell asleep on the job. No tuna bonus for you Martin!

Using a mini triangular file, I bevel each slot. This helps the frets sit nicely, and it prevents the wood from chipping on the edges of the slots. I don't usually do this, but a lot of the inlay will cross the slots, and will require cutting open. Some luthiers bevel the slots on all guitars.

The fretboard is done and ready for inlay. I'll cut the bottom to length when I get ready to glue it to the neck.
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Diane Kauffmann
Country Roads Guitars
countryroadsguitars@gmail.com
jread
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Re: How to make a fretboard

Post by jread »

Martin is a good shop kitty. Interesting notes on the leveling beam. I use my long leveling bar to level the frets but have been using the radiused sanding beam to level the board. I use my long straight edges and check to ensure each area is level using paper or feelers. But a flat beam looks like it would be a lot easier and I also wouldn't have to keep changing to finer grits on my radiused beam which is a pain. ps. you have quite a collection of saddles and nuts in that baggie. :D
Danl8
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Re: How to make a fretboard

Post by Danl8 »

That's a nice tutorial, Diane. Thanks. This has me thinking about making some again. I make mine own for the ukes and mandolins, but not guitars. My first fingerboards were for classical guitars 47 years ago. One of those is my daily player to this day. I don't know how on Earth I got the fret placement, intonation and relief right with simple garage tools at that time.
Diane Kauffmds
Posts: 3246
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm

Re: How to make a fretboard

Post by Diane Kauffmds »

Danl8 wrote: Fri May 20, 2022 9:30 pm That's a nice tutorial, Diane. Thanks. This has me thinking about making some again. I make mine own for the ukes and mandolins, but not guitars. My first fingerboards were for classical guitars 47 years ago. One of those is my daily player to this day. I don't know how on Earth I got the fret placement, intonation and relief right with simple garage tools at that time.
I used an old plastic Stanley mitre jig that we'd had forever and the Irwin dovetail saw. I straightened the boards the best I could on an old tablesaw with a wobbly blade. You want to ensure your slots are parallel to each other. I drew the slot lines based on the stewmac fret slot calculator. I initially bought a 6" long radius block and a 6" leveling file, all from ebay. The slot placements were accurate, but I eventually refretted, leveling the board first.

Proper leveling of the board makes all the difference in the world. When I leveled the frets on my first couple of boards, I always had some frets that were quite flat. When I bought the 19" long beam from Ebay, it made a huge difference. The beam has some scratches, so it was a cheap second. I use it to this day. You can still find a 19" beam for ~ $25. But, you can use a 24" level in a pinch. Long is better, faster, more accurate. If you're only doing one or 2 boards, you can guesstimate the radius. If you decide to continue to build, especially if it's for others, invest in a good, long, radius beam.

For radiusing without a radius beam, draw a arc the size of your radius. For example, Martin uses a 16" fretboard radius. Use a string tied between a toothpick and pencil. The length of string should be 16". Push the toothpick point into cardboard, and stretch the string taut; draw an arc about 3-4" long. Cut out the arc.

Now you have an accurate gauge to determine your fb radius. Use your leveling beam of choice, and approximate the arc as you sand. Check your progress with your homemade gauge.

I've found the flat beam to be quicker, but if you have a radius beam, you can radius and level the fretboard with it.

I don't like leveling the frets themselves with the radius beam. Radius beams have a tendency to thin or flatten the frets more as you move away from the center, thinning them towards each end. Ideally, you want each fret the same thickness along it's whole length, with a 35° bevel at each end.

Fretting is another subject, so I'm not going to go in depth on it. I'll make a second post on fretting.
Diane Kauffmann
Country Roads Guitars
countryroadsguitars@gmail.com
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